Neutralizing Aqua Fortis

[Bob Mac]

I am ready to stain my stock. I have a curly maple stock and made a test piece with Wahkon Bay Aqua Fortis. The curl really popped. What would you recommend to neutralize the AF. I've read using a solution of baking soda and water but am not sure what strength. Also saw mention of using ammonia to neutralize? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Bob

[J. Talbert]

Apparently you didn't read the Diluting Dangler's Stain thread below.

Jeff

[JDK]

I've heard from a couple of sources that some Wahkon Bay AF has been reported to still be active as delivered....it will still dissolve more iron/steel.

He might best be served by neutralizing it just in case or at least test what remains in the bottle for acidity.

Enjoy, J.D.

[tallbear]

Bob
I have found Wahkon Bays aqua fortis to be very acidic.I use household ammonia to neutralize.

Mitch

[Dphariss]

I am ready to stain my stock. I have a curly maple stock and made a test piece with Wahkon Bay Aqua Fortis. The curl really popped. What would you recommend to neutralize the AF. I've read using a solution of baking soda and water but am not sure what strength. Also saw mention of using ammonia to neutralize? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Bob

Use baking soda wash after blushing. In  1/2 cup or more of hot tap water dissolve all the baking soda that it will take too much is better than not enough. 'Wash" the stained and blushed stock with this then wipe with a wet cloth. If there is a reaction to the wash do it twice. Pay attention to the end grain at the entry pipe, lock mortise and comb.
Unless the mix has been changed recently it is not Aqua Fortis but Aqua Regina.
As a result it does not have exactly the same effect on wood.  I have not the foggiest idea why Hydorchloric is in this stuff. Mixed  with their brown it does make a great rust blue solution though. What I have used it for the most.
The two stocks I have done with this got browner over time. I have not seen this with my shop made Nitric Acid stain.

Dan

[Dphariss]

Apparently you didn't read the Diluting Dangler's Stain thread below.

Jeff

I didn't either. The stuff is of no interest to me.

Dan

[Black Hand]

I use a paste of baking soda and water.

[Bob Mac]

Thanks for the help guys.
Bob

[snowdragon]

A little baking soda mixed with water will do the trick. If you make a paste, then you already have more baking soda than is necessary, it doesn't take much to kill the acid. If you look closely, you might be able to see a small fizzing action on the wood when you first apply the paste.  When the fizzing stops, the operation is complete, the acid and the base (baking soda) have cancelled each other out.

I leave the paste on until it dries, then buff it off with an old towel. Bill

[WadePatton]

I'm no chemist, but i do understand the post-application treatment with base. I have a related question that seems to be on point and might be answered without derailing the thread.

If one buys a ready-made AF solution, and it will still take metal (dissolve steel wool), and one adds more metal until it will dissolve no more, at that point (saturation i suppose) would the acidity then have been reduced such that neutralization would require less base (soda as most folks use).  

IOW is the ph of the solution changed when dissolving iron into it?  

i can go get my chemistry text (not really my book) and follow along if someone wants to get all "lab class" with it.

edit:
OH lookie nipped from parallel thread:  (nebbermind)

...
Aqua fortis is Nitric acid,water with iron dissolved into it.If the you dissolve iron until the acid is spent there is no need to neutralize or remove brass componets when staining.

Aqua regia is Nitric acid,hydrochloric acid,water with iron dissolved into it.Again if the acid is spent there is no need to neutralize or remove brass componets when staining...

If you are using Ferric Nitrate crystals the acid is also spent so there is no need to neutralize.

Mitch

emphasis added