Making trigger taller to contact sear

[Jerry V Lape]

Need to extend the top of a trigger so it reaches up to the sear.  Planning to half lap a peice of steel with the trigger and silver solder them since I don't have a welding capability.  should be able to get a little more than 1/16th inch contact along the side of the trigger with the lap and another 1/16th inch contact on the top. The pin will be through the added piece so I am concerned about adequate strength.   Both surfaces will be 3/4th inch long.  Opinions on my plan or a better plan would be appreciated. 

[David R. Pennington]

I had the same problem on my first build. I used a set of Davis triggers and Siler kit. The pattern I used was from an original rifle with a thick stock section in the lock area. I silver soldered a piece on the front trigger bar so I could fire with either trigger. The rear or set bar would travel enough so it was ok. I've been shooting it this way for years without a problem.

[Acer Saccharum]

Jerry, I don't think much strength is needed here, just lay a piece on top of the trigger bar, and silver solder it in place. If it's too tall, you can easily file it down.

[snowdragon]

I agree with Acer, not much strength is needed. There is no sideways force to break off the extension, just downward force into the joint.  I've made short extensions (like less than 1/16") just soft soldering flat metal to the top of the trigger blade. It needs to be a good fit though. If you use that half-lap like you mentioned, soft solder should be strong enough. If you use silver solder, a good fitting butt joint is more than strong enough. Good luck. Bill

[Jim Kibler]

Silver braze (solder) is extraordinarily strong.  Solder a couple small pieces together and just try to break them apart.  Gives you appreciation for what you're dealing with and what applications it can withstand.

[Pete G.]

Make another trigger using the old one as a pattern.

[Long John]

I have done that a couple of times.  Acer is right, strength is not the issue as the joint is under compression when acting on the sear.  More of an issue is the hardness of the steel used.  I like to case harden and polish the part of the trigger that contacts the sear to reduce wear and drag.  When I have added steel to the top of a triger I case hardened the steel, cleaned it up, polished the contact surface and then used soft silver/tin solder to attach.  This maintained the hardness of the steel in the trigger.

It worked well for me.

Best Regards,

John Cholin