First build from a blank and asking for advice. UPDATE

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Will give that a try.

thanks

Another option for the tang "issue" is to use a file and bevel the edges of the tang to be even with the wood or even level the top of the tang with the file if you wish.  Or, you can remove metal from the bottom side and it will look as a perfect fit when done.  Metal is easier to put back than wood. (sometimes). 

Tom

[Cory Joe Stewart]

CoryJoe you are rockin' it.  I gotta get the woodpile built back up then i'm going to try to play catch up.

And don't forget that everybody over-builds everything now compared to the old standards-especially MTN standards.  but that's just a fitment concept, shape is another thing.  Rasp on bro!

I'm a rasping fool at the moment.

Coryjoe

[smart dog]

Hi Cory,
I reread my post and I want to apologize if it sounded disparaging in any way.  I've never built a mountain rifle but my sense about those unadorned guns is that the subtle details of architecture are everything.  Anyway, when I build a gun from a blank, which is almost all the time, I constantly square up the dimensions and smooth the rough spots as I go.  That makes it easier to keep dimensions even and on target.  It also allows me to measure accurately and take stock of where I am.  Consequently, my advice is to slow down and clean up your gun before going any further.  Straighten the lines that need to be straight and remove the gouges and divets and then stop. The gun will now have all the wood left that you really have to work with.  Take a breather and take stock of where you are relative to your plan.   While you are thinking, take a look at the photos I attached.  They show a rifle that I am building (also as a gift) and how I approach lock panels.  I shape the gun completely before cutting in any lock panel details.  The transition to the flat panels is smooth and natural.  Even in the more defined and tight radius panels of mountain rifles, you should start by blending the areas in smoothly as in my photos and then cut in the tight radii later.  Wait until you are almost to the point of finishing the gun.  In other words don't be a "rasping fool".  In my last photo, I washed out the details so you can visualize the underlying shape of the stock and the blending of the panels without being distracted by the carved details.  Keep going, go slow, and good luck,

your friend,

dave
 

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Don't appologize Smartdog you are very helpful. 

I have been studying on it some and I think I am going to have to rework the tang.  That extra meat above the lock is just throwing the whole visual off.  NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!

I am pretty good at patching wood I think what I will do is patch the lollipop completely and then just reinlet it. 

I am going to clean it up as you suggest and think on it some more before I start on that part.

Thanks,

Coryjoe

[JohnTyg]

Dave,

GREAT PICS of your approach to the lock panels!

Just downloaded these to keep for review for my next build.  I'll need to keep looking at these types of pics to keep on track as I build.

John

[Jim Kibler]

Your gun is looking pretty nice, Dave.  I might add a few thoughts on the lock panels / carving shown.  It's common or not uncommon for original "beavertails" to be relatively rounded.  What I'm saying is that they are often not just formed by simply relieving material around them.  In order to accomplish this more rounded profile, they need to be relieved relatively high allowing for extra material that can be shaped to a bit more.  Hope this makes sense.  Also, at the very end of the lock panel, where the lines from below and above the lock meet, it's pretty typical for it to end in a very slight radius rather than a point.  Some of Isac Haines work is an example of where it comes to a point, but it's relatively uncommon.  Now I'm sure some will say this is from wear alone, but I'm not at all convinced.  Look at good contemporary work.  Many choose a to use a slight radius.  A few small details, but they make a big difference in the final appearance.

[WadePatton]

...
I am pretty good at patching wood I think what I will do is patch the lollipop completely and then just reinlet it.  
...

i applaud this approach too.  go ahead and work the dang bugs out NOW 'cuz if you don't they'll always BUG you.  Plus, didn't we just have a recent thread where folks were showing original patchwork (of stocks) and their own patching up.  

show the stock/tang who is boss.  

[smart dog]

Hi Jim,
Thank you for your input.  I understand very clearly what you are saying.  I actually have quite a bit of wood that can still be removed and I can elevate the beavertails considerably and give them a more rounded cross-sectional profile if I choose.  I am just not sure that is what I want.  With respect to the pointed ends of the lock panels, I always shape them that way initially and then consider rounding when almost finished.  Again, I am just not sure what I want yet.   I don't like the way some originals have the flats simply extend into the beaver tail.  A slight radius would look nice as long as the lock panel is clearly differentiated and elevated above the beavertail.  Again thanks very much for the input, Jim, and I will certainly ponder it and look at examples.  I don't want to hijack CoryJoe's thread so I will stop there. 

dave