Lock Problem

[Gaeckle]

When disassembling a L & R or similar lock I always swipe the outside of the fly with a red magic marker.  When reassembling you will know immediately if you have inavertenly flipped the fly over...saves time and profanity....Ron

.......I do the same thing thing, but I use a green marker (so I don't get mine confused with Ron's). L&R's are not all that bad, just gotta know their quirkiness and how to work around it.....

......just "unbashed" a manufacturer...........

[duca]

It has been a long time since I have used an L&R, but I think Gene has a point.  I think the fly can be installed flipped over causing the angles on the fly to be incorrect.  I have also had issues where there is a sloppy fit between the tumbler, fly, sear, and bridle.  In this instance, I filed the bridle to close up the tolerences and got out of the woods on the problem.  Been a while!
                                                                     Roger Sells

Yep. I had a rifle built back in the 90's with an L&R classic that just wasn't working right. It fired OK but just didn't feel right. Then one day I took the lock apart and noticed that the fly went in ether way.  So I turned it around and BAM!! It worked Great!. I like L&R Locks and they stand behind them also. I'm glad we have them available.

[Bob Roller]

The "flys" I make all have an integral pin made as one unit. Impossible to turn it over.
I don't know about any others.

Bob Roller

[dannylj]

Captchee, that is good information. As far as bashing L&R I will say that I have had a lot of aggravation out of this particular lock. It is an L&R RPL-04 replacement lock but Tim has gone way beyond what would be expected in service and advice. There was a frizzen issue originally and he sent out 2 new frizzens and mainsprings at no cost. I would buy another L&R lock for sure. Thanks again for all the suggestions.  Danny

[Acer Saccharum]

Some flies are flat, with a hole at the pivot end. The tumbler recess for the fly has a small integral tit for the fly to drop on to. You can install fly two ways. Up side down or up side up, it's not immediately apparent which is correct until you cycle the lock.

[dannylj]

That is way the L&R lock is made. Fly will go in either way. I just remember to always place it "sloped side up". Otherwise it catches the hammer. Danny

[Mark Elliott]

I feel that I should 'unbash' L&R a little bit.  Perhaps, I was too harsh in my characterization.  I don't think there is necessarily anything wrong with the design or the castings.    I would prefer if the parts were cast oversize to be fitted.    However,  if the locks are properly assembled, they will function just fine.    Some assemblers do a good job and some don't.  That is also the case with Chambers locks.    In my opinion,  Chambers approach where the moving parts are fitted together on assembly is superior.    If I want similar quality with L&R, it entails an extra day of work where I install bushings. 

[Acer Saccharum]

Every lock I ever bought needs tuning, some more than others.
I never bought a Roller or a Hollenbaugh. I would expect they need no tuning.

[J.D.]

Another problem was a loose fitting hammer allowing a slight twisting of the internal parts causing binding. I put a small, thin, well polished washer between the hammer and plate to take up slack. We will see how it works out. Thanks to all of you.  Danny

Twisting internals are the result of over large holes for the tumbler axle in the plate and bridle. Those holes should be bushed and reamed to bring them into spec for the diameters of the axles. There should be no more than .001-.002,  between the diameters of the holes in the plate and bridle, and the diameters of the relative axles. 

IMHO, the shim between the hammer and plate is only a stop gap measure that will slow the lock time by the increased friction between those parts.

There are a few on the forum that can do that work for you.