When to polish lock?

[J.D.]

The lock polishing competition thread got me to thinking about polishing the lock for my impending build. I have only begun preliminary work of  try stock, drawings, an making small parts.

Since the lock can potentially receive scratches and dings in construction of the rifle, I'm wondering if it be a good idea to wait until final assembly to polish the lock?

I plan to have the lock engraved and case hardened, and maybe an oiled bronze busing installed for the tumbler axle, 'cause those bushing are, "slicker than @!*%."

So, to save time, would it be best to go ahead and have that work done on the lock prior to inletting, or is it best to wait until final assembly to have that work done?

Thanks,
J.D.

[Dave B]

J.D.
You have the right idea about waiting on the final polishing out of the lock till the very end. I hate having to recover ground already tilled as it were.  With the exception of filing and polishing the bevel of the lock plates draft angle I don't do any polishing on the lock till the stock work is completely ready for stain.

[flintriflesmith]

I think it is just because I hate polishing locks, but I usually do it in stages. I file and polish the inletting surfaces and then file all the cast surface and casting flash off before I inlet it. That's when any minor reshaping gets done as well.

Then, when the rifle is nearly finished, I find short blocks of time and do one part at a time.

Gary

[Acer Saccharum]

Ah, thank God, Gary, you didn't say something like " I love to polish locks, and polish them one or two guns ahead of time."

[E.vonAschwege]

I plan to have the lock engraved and case hardened, and maybe an oiled bronze busing installed for the tumbler axle, 'cause those bushing are, "slicker than @!*%."

I always do preliminary filing of the lock before inletting... the draft angle, any mold lines, etc.  Final polishing waits until it's installed and ready for finishing. 

As an aside, if you're case hardening your lockplate, then you shouldn't have any need for a bronze bushing.  Bronze, oiled or not, is gonna be softer than cased steel.  The hardened tumbler against the cased lockplate would probably be slicker still.  Someone correct me if I'm mistaken. 
-E

[ironwolf]

  I have to agree with Eric.  Super hard steel will have less friction than an "oilite" or any other bronze bushing.
  In normal industrial apps, oilite is used as a compromise where frequent lubrication is not practical. It will also deform under the right load.

  KW

[Acer Saccharum]

Steel on steel is a great bearing, providing the fit is good and the surfaces are polished. You'll likely never have trouble with it. As with any machine, occasional dis-assembly, cleaning, and re-lubrication is essential.

I'd not opt for the bronze bearing unless I were trying to correct a sloppy fit.

Tom

[J.D.]

Thanks for everyone's replies.

The lock in question is a Chamber's Late Ketland, so there is no sloppy fit. Compared to the locks I am used to dealing with, Chamber's tolerances are super close, so the oilite bushing will not be necessary.

Thanks again, and God Bless,
J.D.