Author Topic: protecting lock finished in the white  (Read 4526 times)

Offline Jerry V Lape

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protecting lock finished in the white
« on: January 02, 2009, 11:16:25 PM »
How to protect a lock finished in the white from future corrosion?  I know with bone charcoal case hardening of shotguns the colors are protected with a lacquer to avoid abrasion removing the colors.  Would a similar lacquer coating be appropriate for a lock finished in the white.  (I don't think the lacquer will hold up very long on th upper surfaces around the pan, but otherwise it should protect the finish.)


Offline Pete G.

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Re: protecting lock finished in the white
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2009, 12:08:49 AM »
I use a rust remover from the marine hardware store similar to naval jelly. I think it is a mild solution of phosphoric acid, but I'm not sure. It gives sort of an antique gray look, which is good for most of my applications, but if you are going for the high polish look, probably not. The advantage this stuff gives is that you can recoat if you get any dark spots forming and it will clean them up without affecting the existing finish.

ironwolf

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Re: protecting lock finished in the white
« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2009, 03:31:08 PM »
 A good, hard wax would be easier to maintain than lacquer.

  Kevin

Offline chris laubach

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Re: protecting lock finished in the white
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2009, 05:22:23 PM »
How to protect a lock finished in the white from future corrosion?  I know with bone charcoal case hardening of shotguns the colors are protected with a lacquer to avoid abrasion removing the colors.  Would a similar lacquer coating be appropriate for a lock finished in the white.  (I don't think the lacquer will hold up very long on th upper surfaces around the pan, but otherwise it should protect the finish.)




This works well;
www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html


Chris Laubach

westbj2

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Re: protecting lock finished in the white
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2009, 06:31:51 PM »
At minimum, a modest polish on to as far as you want to go.  When these surfaces are case hardened and polished back to bright a very corrosion resistant surface results.  Just have to wait 20 years for the nice subtle patina to develop.

Pete:  I am not a chemist or engineer but long ago I was advised to keep Naval Jelly away from springs.  Apparently it can cause Hydrogen Embrittlement and cause the spring to fail/break.  Maybe some one here with knowledge can comment on this.

Jim Westberg

Offline Larry Luck

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Re: protecting lock finished in the white
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2009, 07:09:12 PM »
I second Chris on the endorsement of Renaissance Wax over top of a well polished surface.

Larry Luck

Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

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Re: protecting lock finished in the white
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2009, 07:55:10 PM »
I also endorse the Renaissance wax.  It is terrific stuff and fun to renew periodically!!
De Oppresso Liber
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Offline B Shipman

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Re: protecting lock finished in the white
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2009, 09:41:34 AM »
Surfaces hardened superficially resist rust. Aside from denting the top of the lock plate, and this can be limited with good design, this is , I think , the principle reason to caseharden a lock. Jim's right. Hardened locks don't rust easily.

titanicslim

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Re: protecting lock finished in the white
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2009, 07:59:05 PM »
For what it's worth, sailors used to coat them with shellac.