Author Topic: Tennessee Entry Pipe  (Read 5823 times)

Offline Pete G.

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Tennessee Entry Pipe
« on: April 07, 2013, 06:45:52 PM »
There is a style where the pipe butts into a flat piece of metal, which looks to be inlet into the lower forestock, sort of like a flat muzzle cap of sorts. I can cobble together something that looks like that, but how are they really supposed to be made and attached?
« Last Edit: April 07, 2013, 06:46:24 PM by Pete G. »

eagle24

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2013, 06:59:10 PM »
Pete,

Here is the link to a thread with and entry pipe like I think you are describing.

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=2973.0

« Last Edit: April 08, 2013, 07:01:57 PM by GHall »

Offline Pete G.

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2013, 12:39:25 AM »
Yes, that is similar, but the one I am looking for does not have the piece that extends back over the lower stock. With just the pipe and vertical plate I am not quite sure how to attach the vertical plate. Does the pipe extend through the plate (and soldered perhaps) and the whole thing is pinned like a regular pipe?

Offline bgf

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2013, 01:26:37 AM »
Pete,
That was one I thought you might be asking about, but I couldn't find a clear photo (maybe some Douglas rifles?).  I seem to remember one with screws or nails in the plate, which would imply it wasn't necessarily soldered or brazed but I'm really not sure and people rarely bother to make photographs of that critical area.  Maybe Guy (G-man) will see this -- he knows pretty much everything about stuff like this.

billm

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2013, 05:35:57 AM »
I dont know how they were done on originals,but on the one Im doing Im going to inlet the pipe,then do my forestock shaping.Then when its near final Im going to cut out the half moon piece and braze it to the pipe and if need be nail it on either side.If anyone has another way I would like to hear it to!

Offline T*O*F

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2013, 06:32:49 AM »
I made mine from a 5/16ths body washer and soldered it on.  You could enlarge the hole if you are using a 3/8ths rod.
Dave Kanger

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-S.M. Tomlinson

Offline G-Man

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2013, 10:49:56 PM »
If I understand the one you are asking about it is a Bean style that Myron Carlson used to make a copy of.  For this one  the entry "cap piece was a curved piece - almost a semi circle  - with the mating flat face piece brazed inside the edge to form the front face.  The diameter of the curved piece will determine your stock shape and thickness in this area so it needs to be kept pretty small.  This flat face gets a semicircular notch filed in it.  That whole piece is inlet at the ramrod entry ooint- make sure to keep it aligned with he underside of the forearm - if they get canted they look real bad.   

After this piece is inlet (but before permanent attachment) inlet your rear thimble so that the tail end of it just slips into and tucks inside the notch on the face of the entry "cap" piece and pin it in place.  No need to braze or solder - the two individual sections are each secure.  Then clamp the rear piece in place over the rear end of the pinned tailpipe, and secure it with a small rivets or brads on each side (angled and short so they don't go into the ramrod hole a- also slight predrilling helps as the wood is thin here) and finsh filing everything flush when you finish filing and sanding the forearm.

Guy

Offline Keb

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2013, 03:15:23 PM »
I think I've got a couple guns made with this type entry pipe.
The plates are attached with small screws.

This one:


This one:


and this one:

Offline deano

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2013, 03:43:06 PM »
I did mine the same as Keb's first picture, I inlet the last pipe and fit a sheet steel crescent over the end of the pipe to fit the end of the fore stock. I used small nails on each side with a dab of epoxy to seal the grain and make sure things stay put.

Offline bgf

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2013, 03:47:40 PM »
Keb,
That is the one!

Offline T*O*F

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2013, 08:23:14 PM »
Maybe not what you're looking for, but I did mine this way so it would match my trigger guard.  As I mentioned earlier, it was made from a body washer.



Dave Kanger

If religion is opium for the masses, the internet is a crack, pixel-huffing orgy that deafens the brain, numbs the senses and scrambles our peer list to include every anonymous loser, twisted deviant, and freak as well as people we normally wouldn't give the time of day.
-S.M. Tomlinson

Offline Pete G.

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #11 on: April 13, 2013, 02:25:25 PM »
Thanks, Keb. That is exactly what I was searching for.
I am using a fender washer to build this thing, but I wasn't sure how it was attached.

Thanks guys.

Offline G-Man

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2013, 08:37:14 PM »
I misunderstood which type you were asking about - the one I described is shown on Ron Borron's "Early Bean" drawing that went along with the hardware Myron made for it.

Guy

Offline Pete G.

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Re: Tennessee Entry Pipe
« Reply #13 on: April 14, 2013, 04:35:10 PM »
My description perhaps wasn't the best, but I appreciate the answer. Since I am in the planning stage it opens up options, and it never hurts to learn all we can about these things. Helps get you into the "feel" of the style you are attempting.