wear plates

[BrianH]

does any one have any pictures of wear plates on reading rifles ? my ramrod hole broke thru and I'm going to have to put one on but haven't had much luck finding pictures
thanks Brianh

[Dave B]

Brian,
The Library has a Berks Co rifle with wear plate by Angstad here is  the link. http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=2383.0

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/DSC_0096_zpsdc28cad8.jpg

The second rifle up from the bottom is a Henry Mauger I believe with wear plate. Its not a very good photo but you get the Idea.

[Acer Saccharum]

Is the plate on there for wear resistance?  in which case the original smith would have built it this way.

or

is it because the gun got so much use and the stock wore thru? Then anyone could have put the plate on, a smith, or a hack.

[BrianH]

I would like it to look like it was built that way not a patch
thanks Brianh

[BrianH]

thanks Dave
the angstad is similar to what i'm looking for the blow out is just in front of the trigger guard

[eddillon]

How about to cover an oops while drilling the ramrod hole.  I have been there done that.

[Dave B]

Here is one that is a little more ornate. It could be a Berks Co Rifle
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/DaveB44/DSCN2726_zpsb5e97816.jpg

[Keb]

I have been there done that. Grin

Me too...

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

...me too!

[bama]

A lot of times a wear plate was used to cover a break through but I did a restoration on a rifle where the maker wanted to get the rifleman slim as he could. He ran a wear plate the full length of the forearm. I had to pull the wear plate to do the restoration. When I pulled it the entire ram rod groove was exposed from the rear thimble to the front of the guard. This rifle was really slim, accident or by design it was a slim rifle that looked really nice. This was not his first rifle so I think it was by design.

[bedbugbilly]

Hi all - I'm new to this site but have built a number of rifles over the years - primarily from rough sawn stock blanks.  This post caught my eye.  I am about to use my first precarved stock - one that I picked up at Friendship a number of years ago.  It's a Bedford style and the ramrod hole is already drilled of course.  The hole is nice and straight and not a "drill through" but rather there is a void in the wood about two inches back from where the bottom entry pipe would be located.  It's a maple stock - moderate figure.

As a result of this defect, I'm faced with repairing it in one of two ways.  I can either graft a new piece in with a piece as close in grain to the stock as possible . . . this graft would have to extend down into the ramrod hole but I have ramrod drills that I could then re-drill the hole through the graft (using the already drilled hole and ramrod channel as a guide) . . . OR'

I could cover/repair the defect with a wear plate.  If I do the wear plate, what thickness of material is commonly used?  The rifle will have brass furniture so I would use brass.  What is the best method of attaching the wear plate after it is inletted?

Faced with the two options, which would be the best solution to repairing the defect?  I think I have a similar grained piece of maple that I could use as a graft - the rifle is going to be a "shooter" and be used - probably with a darker tone finish - haven't decided yet.  How common were "grafts" for wood repairs on originals?

I've shot BP for 50 + years and have examined a number of originals but offhand, I really don't recall any that had grafts in this area of the stock.  Your input please.  Thanks!

Enjoying the site - lots of good information and always something new to learn. 

[Dennis Glazener]

How common were "grafts" for wood repairs on originals?

Welcome to ALR BB Billy, hope you enjoy your stay.

You didn't mention how big the void was, if not too large you might even consider leaving it and antique the rifle to make it look well used over the years. As to grafts versus wear plates, the only original (by original maker) "grafts" that I have seen were on European guns. Possibly some here in this country but I have not seen one. On the other hand I have seen LOTS of wear plates.
My two cents worth.
Dennis

[bedbugbilly]

Dennis - thank you for your warm welcome - greatly appreciated!

The stock is a "second" from Pecaatonica - I picked it up at the Nationals in Friendship probably ten years ago or so.  The "flaw" appears to be associated with a mineral streak or similar and I would have to graft in a piece about 2 to 2 1/2 " in length.  The end of the tang on the lower entry pipe/thimble would fall about 1/2" from the beginning of it.  It is pretty much centered on the forearm area. 

I was thinking that I might be able to make a jig that would allow me to use the router with a dovetail bit and take material evenly off of that area . . . then cut a piece of matching maple (as close as I can grain wise) and fit and glue it in - then profile it.  I could follow up with the ramrod drill to reopen the the ramrod hole.  More than likely, I'll use aquas forte on it as I have had good results with that in the past. 

I suppose that I could perform the repair that way and if too outstanding, I could then do a wear plate over it.  Overall, I'm guessing that the piece grafted in will have to be about 3/8" thick or so - possibly a little thicker.

I want to "antique" the rifle but I'm afraid that if I leave the defect, it may cause problems down the road.  Overall the stock is pretty decent with the exception of that little defect - which currently is about 1/8" X 1 1/2" in an angular position that is open into the ramrod hole.

I once had a 4 gauge "market gun" in my collection that had a metal ramrod - percussion.  It had a brass wear plate installed on it but I never removed it to see how thick the material was from wjhivh it was constructed.  It looked fairly thick but then the stock was pretty hefty due to the type of firearm it was.  Can anyone suggest a good thickness of brass to use that can be formed to the curve of a forearm that will work well for a wear plate?  If I use one, I don't want to be too thin nor too thick. 

Thanks for your suggestion Dennis - appreciate it!  And yes, I am enjoying this board - nice to have access to so much "build" information!

[Pete G.]

Since you will never get a patch to match the existing grain, why not inlet a piece of contrasting wood and re-drill. Turn a flaw into a feature.

[Black Hand]

Since you will never get a patch to match the existing grain, why not inlet a piece of contrasting wood and re-drill. Turn a flaw into a feature.

Images of originals I have seen indicate little effort was made to match the existing grain.  Admittedly, I haven't seen as many originals as others on this site.

[JTR]

Black Hand, I wonder if what you're seeing isn't early attempts at restoration, and not repairs by the original maker?
From what I've seen, not many old guys made repairs to wood probably because it wasn't necessary due to a plentiful supply of wood. True, there are a few guns with original wood repairs, but a lot more with mis-matched grain from early restoration.
John 

[bedbugbilly]

Pete . . . . you're making me feel pretty stupid!  LOL     I hadn't thought about what you suggested but it sure has some possibilities.  Thanks for the suggestion.  Now I'm going to have to ponder on just what to do . . . . maybe a contrasting graft and some matching inlays in the same contrasting wood in other locations? 

I have to agree with the comment of originals and if they made an error, their supply of good gun wood was probably much more available.  It would be interesting to know how many rejects they actually produced with ramrod holes drifting off, etc.

I was a cabinet maker and owned a custom cabinet/millwork shop.  Fortunately, I had the opportunity to work with several older gentlemen (at the time I was young) who taught me many tricks of the trade.  I've never had a problem with drilling ramrod holes (knock on wood) so I guess I've just been very lucky in that aspect but I'm sure it will happen.  Like any trade, a person learns from their mistakes and part of the trick is to learn how to fix/cover up those errors . . save the workpiece and make it so it can't be seen or so it appears intentional. 

I've always used stock blanks - and probably feel more comfortable using the wood in that form as most everything is square prior to shaping.  This is the first precarved stock I've ever used so it will be an adventure.  I haven't built a rifle in about ten years or so . . . we'll see how it goes.  I'm sure i'll be asking some questions along the way! 

Thanks for you thoughts and I appreciate the suggestions . . . now I just have to get at it!