Squirrel lock

[whitebear]

Being mostly a squirrel hunter I fell in love with the squirrel lock by Davis when it first came out.  I am seriously considering ordering one and wanted to know if any of you have ever used one on a build?  I know that this is a mostly flintlock longrifle forum but I have had enough experience with the membership here to trust your judgement.  Also is it big enough for a 15/16 barrel?  The lockplate is 4.75 X 1.03 I was wondering if this was big enough.

[Pete G.]

It is a small lock and the hammer reach is short. I was going to use it on a 13/16" .36 cal with a hooked breech but would have had to mount it too far forward. It would probably work on a fixed breech, but it would be difficult to get the lock panels correct with such a small lock on a larger barrel.

I ending up using it on a 3/4" barrel .32 and it made a really nice setup for a kid's rifle. First person that looked at it bought it.

[necchi]

I'm using it on a build right now.
This kit was something I picked up from a guy that started it years ago and never finished so I've had to make do with what he's done.
That said the lock is very wide, and he had it inlet just a little wrong and it's been a pita to set the triggers to function properly. The locks sear arm is very close to the edge on the lock plate. I got it, but I won't be able to get the stock as narrow as I'd like because of the trigger arms/sear relation.
I must say the advertised "Quickness/Crispness" of the lock is there because it uses the large siler internals and would be plenty big enough for a 15/16. Here's where I'm at with an Allentown stock, a 13/16 40cal GM, and Davis DSDT triggers,

[frogwalking]

If you really like the lock, and it becomes necessary, it is not difficult to install a longer hammer.
(Pete G. said "the hammer reach is short.")   

[necchi]

It's not about the hammer.
It's about the lock plate being over 1" wide and the position of the trigger sear arm.



That thing is way low in relation to the size of the plate.

[whitebear]

could it be heated and bent?

[Gene Carrell]

I like the lock for use on both drum and patent breech and yes, I usually heat and bend the sear arm to help with trigger placement.

[whitebear]

Where do you bend the sear arm, Between the 90* angle and the screw hole or do you bend the extension?

[Pete G.]

If you really like the lock, and it becomes necessary, it is not difficult to install a longer hammer.
(Pete G. said "the hammer reach is short.")   

You are pretty much stuck with the hammer as is. The lock plate is already cut for the drum.

[Gene Carrell]

Bend between the pivot and the 90deg angle.