Depth of ramrod hole????

[Brian Jordan]

I have done some searching and have not found the exact answer I am looking for. Quite a few of the old threads I found say the rod should stop against the front trigger guard tenon. If you have the clearance do you just drill an inch, or so past the breech end of the barrel? The building books I have are different from one another.

So what do you Guys aim for as a rod hole depth?

[smylee grouch]

You will want the hole deep enough so that your ramrod ,fully inserted is long enough so if it should end up against the front trigger gaurd lug it would be deep enough but I have not seen one that was deep enough when the drill was stoped at the trigger gaurd lug. Just measure the ramrod when in the barrel and go deep enough so when you put the ramrod in the stock, it doesnt end up beond the end of the stock.

[Herb]

I cut that front lug off and fasten the trigger guard up in other ways.  The ramrod hole can then be drilled back to the tang bolt, gaining up to an inch and a half.  Then you have a rod that is longer than the bore and doesn't stick out beyond the muzzle.

[Black Hand]

As deep as I can get the hole without interfering with some other part.

[Mark Elliott]

You have to have a place for the lug or screw of the trigger guard.   That means that the ramrod hole must stop at the breech end of the barrel.   Usually,  it must stop at the face of the breech plug(about 1/2" forward of the breech).    Stopping at the breech plug face is probably best as that gives you a ramrod exactly the length of the bore.  That means when inserted in an empty  bore, the ramrod ferrule tip is even with the muzzle.   That is the easiest way to tell if the gun is unloaded.     Loaded, the ramrod would usually stick out the length of the threaded ferrule or a little more.   That is sufficient to use it.    For cleaning you screw on a wiper that will extend the rod a few inches.   This is all my opinion, of course.

[rich pierce]

Agree.  Original tow worms were long, much longer than the jags that were invented in the 1960s or whenever.  So there's no need for an extra deep ramrod hole (allowing a longer rod) for cleaning if you use a traditional tow worm.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I try to make the rod as long as the Full barrel length. On some of the trigger guards I find that the front lug is positioned 1/2" forward of the trigger bow so that it will interfere with the end of the rod hole. When this is a problem I saw of the lug and make a new one similar in size to the one I removed and silver solder it to the TG so it does no longer interfere. Works good for me.

[Mark Elliott]

I wanted to address moving the front lug on a guard.  I have cut them off and soldered them back on in the past as one of the other posters mentioned.  However,  I wouldn't do it that way now.   I would suggest making a lug with a post that would allow you to rivet it into the front extension.   It would be quicker and much stronger.   Holding the lug in the right place to silver solder it is always a problem and if you don't get a good fit,  it could break off.   Just my two cents.

[Brian Jordan]

I drilled my hole today and all went well I was very nervous as I am sure you all were on your first rod hole. The rod hole stayed fairly parallel to the bottom of the barrel to within .020. heading towards the barrel. Side to side the hole wandered slightly toward the side plate by .050. I ended up drilling the hole about a 1/4" past the breech face. Now on to the next step!!

Thanks all for the advice!

[shortbarrel]

herb, please explain the other ways

[Acer Saccharum]

On some guns, I like to drift/sneak the RR hole closer to the side opposite the lock. Then the rr hole completely misses the lug of the guard. (You could run it into the wrist if you like.)

This also avoids the rr hole and mainspring trying to live in the same space.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I wanted to address moving the front lug on a guard.  I have cut them off and soldered them back on in the past as one of the other posters mentioned.  However,  I wouldn't do it that way now.   I would suggest making a lug with a post that would allow you to rivet it into the front extension.   It would be quicker and much stronger.   Holding the lug in the right place to silver solder it is always a problem and if you don't get a good fit,  it could break off.   Just my two cents.

When I move the front lug, I don't just remove the lug and silver solder it on in a different spot. I remove the lug and file the base flat. Then I make a New folded lug as I would on a barrel lug it has a folded base that is silver soldered onto the trigger guard just ahead of the Guard Bow. I then file the edges even with the trigger guard finial, it is full coverage and very strong.

[Acer Saccharum]

Good tip.

Using your method, one could also re-locate the tab offset one side or the other. Hmmmm.