wet-or-dry

[caliber45]

Gents -- I usually try to avoid "better-than" topics (witness the Pharris-Kibler debate on sealers), but can't resist this one. Scrapers won't be interested in this, but sanders might be. I've always used lotsa 220 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper from the hardware on rifle stocks -- GatorGrit (Finland). After the first couple of minutes, it seems to slack off on cutting much wood and soon gives up the ghost. Recently was at Walmart and didn't want to bother going to the hardware, and purchased some 3M wet-or-dry sandpaper (multi-grit pack, including 220). Tried it out today on a maple bow-in-progress, and to my amazement, it continued removing wood aggressively for a MUCH longer time than the GatorGrit. Probably made in China (most everything is these days), but it's good stuff! For what that's worth . . . (I have no connection with 3M . . . or China!) -- paulallen, greencastle, IN.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I probably have used it in the past. Right now I've been using Norton papers the black ones always work better and stay shaper longer. They also work well on metals too. These black papers tend to run about $3-$4 per sheet. But search around on Amazon and you can get some deals on 100 sheep packs around $19 - $25 per pack. 

I always use the black waterproof paper. They all seem to work better regardless of the manufacturer. Norton papers that I have now are made in Canada. Nothing is made in the USA anymore except Contemporary longrifles. LOL

[Acer Saccharum]

SANDPAPER!...... OMG, that's not PC, HC, or even BC!!!!

Guns won't shoot when stocks are sanded!

I do use scrapers for finishing, but I am thinking for a worn look, what happens to a gun over time but erosion of the wood and metal surfaces by abrasion. On my current gun, I am going to try for a more antique look, and will probably use....SANDPAPER! for various effects of wear and tear.

[Stophel]

I use sandpaper some, not generally for the "final finish" of the wood surface, though. It can come in handy for shaping some areas more quickly than scraping or filing, and good for knocking off high spots and leveling out some areas.

I use the gray "wet or dry" sandpaper for metal, though.  Only because I have no desire to fool with a pad and powdered abrasive.     Sandpaper's essentially the same thing, but much more convenient! 

[Mark Elliott]

You are very funny, Tom.

[bgf]

3M works much better than Gator Grit for me, also.  I still use a lot of sandpaper, although I'm trying to move to scraping -- more because I'm cheap than anything else, and oh yeah it is HC 100% authentic !

[Acer Saccharum]

You are very funny, Tom.

Mark, do you mean like, odd, or humorous? I suspect both, since you have such a way with words.

I really like scraping for several reasons. The big one is that there isn't the sanding dust which I have become increasingly sensitive to. Another is that quite a bit of shaping can be done with a scraper. When my stock is close to net size I pare off material with the scraper, as I hate to get the rasp out, for it is sure to gouge furrows in adjacent areas that are fine. For background relieving and blending there is nothing better.

Did I ever tell you, I like scrapers?

Tom

[wet willy]

Used 3M wet-or-dry for finishing stocks. Works OK for walnut that's not been stained: after a coat of dried finish, wet a wet-or-dry piece with finish, sand it in, wipe it off, reapply several times. Nice job filling grain. Probably not PC, but in my eyes it looks great.

Tried it on stained pieces, but too easy for me to rub through, creating unstained edges. Progressing from 400 to 600 to 800 yields pleasing finish after 5 or so sandings. I use pieces about 2" x 4" hand held to conform to the stock. The wet-or-dry paper usually clogs easily with this process, but can be discarded.

[Kermit]

Sharkskin.

[WadePatton]

I don't know where i found it, but it _looked_ like good paper.  the gator grit. 

But, as noted in OP, it sucked baaad.

nevermore.  I'll use what the auto-body guys are using.  better paper is a better tool.

scrape scrape