Rasp for rough stock shapeing

[alyce-james]

I bought one yesterday.  YOu guys better be right!!! 

I got mine yesterday and I am not impressed. If it is not held perfectly flat you get a deep cut on one side. I think I wil stick with my Nicholson #49 and #50

   I agree completely with C .Wallingford. Shinto file suck. Since 1975, my first build, I have never used such a worthless tool. I'm staying with my used files, Drago, Grobet (auto body) and US made Nicholson # 49 and # 50 files. Barrels I purchase today that come with tooling marks I use a 12 X 5/8 inch stepped broach. AJ 

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I bought one yesterday.  YOu guys better be right!!! 

I got mine yesterday and I am not impressed. If it is not held perfectly flat you get a deep cut on one side. I think I wil stick with my Nicholson #49 and #50

Hmm,...... got mine last night and will put it to work on my Gillespie tomorrow....... I do most things backwards so maybe it will work for me............

[rudyc]

Hello alyce-james,

Any idea where to get an  U. S. American Made Nicholson #49 or #50??

All I have seen lately have been from South America.

[alyce-james]

rudyc; Sir, I'm not sure you can purchase new #49-#50's, US made anymore. Mine have some age to them. However I keep special care of them. I'm also not sure of the quality of Brazilian manufacture systems Good luck looking and finding them. Have a great week end. AJ

[rudyc]

AJ,

I got both of mine back in the 80's, they are US made. Have not heard much good about the newer ones.

[Hungry Horse]

 I looked at that thing, and kept thinking, I had owned one many years ago, sure enough, I started digging into the unused tool bin, and there it was. it doesn't have the fancy forward handle, like the one pictured, but its the same tool. It is nothing but a bunch of hacksaw blades cleverly bent, and riveted, together, with a handle. I didn't find it very effective on hard maple, which is why its in the seldom if ever used tool bin. Maybe the forward handle would help put more pressure on the cutting surface.

                       Hungry Horse

[Acer Saccharum]

The new Nicholson rasps have an entirely different tooth pattern from the older American pattern. While sharp, the teeth are so regularly  spaced that tearing or chewing is the result, with a washboard effect to the wood surface.

The irregular spacing of the old Nicholson pattern is sorely missed. You can get an approximation of this in other rasps such as the Ariou with hand cut teeth.

[Ed Wenger]

The Shinto's are great for flat work, the Iwasaki's are nice for curved surfaces (half round).  All the tools mentioned are great, and work well.  I also use cabinet makers rasps.  For removing lots of wood fairly fast I like big chisels / gouges, planes, sure forms, or even a band saw.

It's probably what you're accustomed to, and feel comfortable using, that'll work best for you.


      Ed

[WadePatton]

don't overlook a farriers rasp guys.  they work real well on wood.  picked one up for a dollar at a yard sale. : )

I bought a new farriers rasp today for 17 bucks.  It's my main ride now.  I wouldn't have thought i could use the coarse side, but it moves some wood-when the grain is right, and also makes a mess when it's wrong. 

17 for the less expensive one.  26 for the "better" one.  Would love to have a round and half-round in this style and price.  The round sure-form i have is bad for clogging and heck on your other hand until you learn to protect it. 4 minutes tops  .

[Vomitus]

  I watched Taylor work on a slabbed down long stock that became my 28 ga fowler. In 25 minutes flat he had it "hogged" down so that it looked like a gun. He worked up a good sweat,but had it real close to final scraping and sanding.That was with the Nicholson rasp.I helped by opening and passing the ice cold brewski's.

[Dphariss]

Stanley Surform 21-296 with a surform 21-299.
The flat surform blade is pretty useless.
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=SURFORM+TOOLS+AND+BLADES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=21-299&SDesc=10%26%2334%3B+Surform%26%23174%3B+Half+Round+Regular+Cut+Replacement+Blade

Lasts for years in heavy use  if you don't hit metal with it. Mine 30 year old one   finally cracked and I have yet to order on. Been roughing with a fishtail gouge the last couple of shapings.

Dan

[Dphariss]

The surform cuts clean with the grain and does not tear as some coarse rasps can. It does not leave tracks that appear when the grain is raised.
Pattern makers rasp is the next best and follows the surform for closer shaping if you have one. Then  metal files (like a second or fine cut 1/2 round bastard)  and scrapers.


Dan

[Acer Saccharum]

Dan brings up a good point.

When the grain is raised, any depressed wood will rise back up. So if your rasp is dull, and you really have to bear down on it to cut, the wood is actually compressing under the rounded teeth.

[medbill]

So any tips on where to find good old made in the USA Nicholson files?  I had a set I purchased from someone here and they have gone missing. I have a class coming up this winter and I don't want to have to be borrowing from my classmates again.  Thanks for any advice and or help.

[JDK]

Start calling around to places that stock 'em and see if they have any new old stock.   I've always found that Jamestown Dist. always had the best price on these but don't know if the ones they stock now are imports or not.  Wouldn't hurt to call.  http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2778&familyName=Nicholson+Cabinet+Rasps

You may have to check e-bay and the other sites or go with the better Euro or Japanese stuff out there now....with their higher prices.

Good luck.  Enjoy, J.D.

[Acer Saccharum]

Rasp info might be a handy reference:  http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=27762.0

[medbill]

Thanks guys!