Author Topic: Bone  (Read 7388 times)

Offline David R. Pennington

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Bone
« on: November 05, 2013, 06:04:25 AM »
Just finished processing a nice doe into steaks and jerky. I saved the large leg bones with the intension of using them for knife handles. Any insight into how to prepare them? Should I just let them dry out or process them in some way?
VITA BREVIS- ARS LONGA

ottawa

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Re: Bone
« Reply #1 on: November 05, 2013, 01:56:49 PM »
you mite want to take the marrow out of them now befor it get old and nasty smelling then let dry till ready for use

Offline Elnathan

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Re: Bone
« Reply #2 on: November 05, 2013, 04:02:55 PM »
http://www.florilegium.org/files/CRAFTS/Working-Horn-pamphlet.pdf

See page 4 for some instructions.


Apart from a couple turkey calls, the few bone objects I have made came from a pet-shop bone that had already been cleaned, whitened, and dried, so I don't have much to add from practical experience.
A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition -  Rudyard Kipling

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Bone
« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2013, 06:27:49 PM »
 Ottawa is right, by all means cut one end off the bones, and remove the marrow. I usually throw the bone into a solution of bleach, and water. Straight bleach will quickly damage the bone, if you aren't careful. I alway make a ferule of brass or other material to go in the end near the guard on a knife, or other utensil, to prevent splitting. The old timers filed, or forged ridges in the shank of the knife, and filled the handle with boiled pitch to secure it. Now days epoxy is more common, but is a lot harder to reverse if something goes wrong.
 I age my bone handles with oil base golden oak wood stain, applied and then wiped off, until I get the color I want. I give them a coat of paste wax after it is dry. this works very well on bone hair pipes too.

                            Hungry Horse
                       

                             

Offline David R. Pennington

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Re: Bone
« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2013, 04:42:54 AM »
Thanks for the info guys. I've got a really old pair of sheep shears with "Wilkinson'" makers marks in tombstone shaped cartouches that I'm making into a pair of knives. Deer bone handles will look great on these. I plan on pouring pewter ferrules on them.
VITA BREVIS- ARS LONGA

Offline T.C.Albert

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Re: Bone
« Reply #5 on: November 06, 2013, 05:06:13 AM »
Be wary of filling too much of the hollow bone with molten pewter. (if thats what
you might be thinking of doing?) The bone can easily crack from the heat in a heart beat...
Dont ask me how I know that...
tc 
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Contact at : huntingpouch@gmail.com

Offline David R. Pennington

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Re: Bone
« Reply #6 on: November 06, 2013, 05:35:00 AM »

Here are my blade blanks.
TC, what would you recommend. Epoxy the bone on and leave a little void for the pewter?
VITA BREVIS- ARS LONGA

Offline Jerry V Lape

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Re: Bone
« Reply #7 on: November 06, 2013, 07:34:28 PM »
As for preparing the bone, cut it so you can get most of the marrow out, scrape it a bit, then lay it on an ant heap and leave it over the summer.  It will be white and clean.  Helps to turn it periodically.  Works great in AZ.   About the fastening of the handle, I prefer to use a cross pin or two with the epoxy so I would flatten the tangs a bit and cross drill the bone and tang together.  Epoxy the two pieces and let it setup before cross drilling. 

Offline Dan Fruth

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Re: Bone
« Reply #8 on: November 07, 2013, 04:21:59 AM »
I have seen old knife and fork sets used for carving meat, and the "tangs" of the fork or knife was set into the bone with what appears to be a thick shellac, and when the metal is heated the shellac will loosen up...These old carving sets are easily found on e-bay, and they always have a metal ferral at the end where the metal fits onto the bone handle.   I know bone will sometimes crack if not filled, and this seems how the old timers did it....Dan
The old Quaker, "We are non-resistance friend, but ye are standing where I intend to shoot!"

Offline T.C.Albert

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Re: Bone
« Reply #9 on: November 07, 2013, 05:14:55 AM »
Im crazy enough to mix up some brick dust and hide glue. You have to crush the brick, then mix a few drops od vinegar into a medicine cup full of Franklins liquid hide glue so it dries quicker...then I's add the dust to the glue making a thick paste...and it still may end up a disaster if the glue wont set up...

So even though I may try that, I recommend that you try a few tubes of exoxy...or better yet use the epoxy dough stuff that you knead together and poke that down into the void...or even filling the bulk of the hollow with wooden shims before you cross pean the pins and pour the pewter.

I used a deer leg bone to rehandle an original old cuttoe hanger that was dug up in a tobacco barn owned by my wifes kin...I poured the entire viod full of melted babbit/tin type and as it cooled I heard a big crack...the bone split its entire length...looked great on the old relic, but maybe not what you are after...
tc 
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Offline Artificer

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Re: Bone
« Reply #10 on: November 07, 2013, 07:50:01 AM »
In the 70’s and 1980’s; I haunted antique stores, flea markets, “Junque Shoppes” and similar places from South Carolina to Massachusetts, all over Indiana and everywhere I traveled where the Corps sent me, whilst looking for two and three prong forks and period knives that could be used at living histories, buckskinning and reenacting.  Most of these were wood handled, of course, but some were bone. 

I saw them in every state of condition from dug relic to looking like they were just old like something I might find in my Grandfather’s house.  On the ones that pieces of the pewter was missing and especially the bone handled ones, the inletting for the pewter was never very deep and actually was quite shallow. This agrees with what T.C. Albert mentioned about not putting much hot pewter on or in bone so it would not crack. 

I purchased one set of bone handled knives and forks that were kind of classy, though they were silver plate and not true silver.  The maker’s name dated them to the 1840’s, but there was not an entire “service for 8 or more.”  I think there were 5 forks and 7 knives.  There was no pewter used on them and they were all short tanged and glued into the bone handles.  The bolster on each piece mated up to the front of the bone handle with no glue line visible.  However, one knife had a broken handle and I remember noticing a sort of light brown color glue inside.  Not sure if it was hide glue, but I don’t think it was shellac. 

From what I have learned, 18th century cutlers used black pine tar pitch glue that was mixed with brick dust to fill up the void in the handles on trade knives..  I think the brick dust was supposed to give it body and strength, but that is just my speculation from reading, rather than something that was definitively written.
Gus

Offline Dan Fruth

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Re: Bone
« Reply #11 on: November 07, 2013, 03:30:32 PM »
Thanks for the reality check...I never knew what the glue was in these old knives, but by it's appearance, I thought it was some sort of a shellac, as it is shiney...The pine tar glue makes more sense...
The old Quaker, "We are non-resistance friend, but ye are standing where I intend to shoot!"

Offline Chris Treichel

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Re: Bone
« Reply #12 on: November 07, 2013, 07:32:58 PM »
If you want to go more primitive on the pine pitch glue... mix up pine pitch with some crushed charcoal and grind up some rabbit @#$%/!!.  The fiber and charcoal turn it into a really hard glue that won't fracture if impacted. 

Offline smylee grouch

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Re: Bone
« Reply #13 on: November 07, 2013, 08:50:10 PM »
Do you dry your @#$%/!! before you grind it?

Offline Elnathan

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Re: Bone
« Reply #14 on: November 08, 2013, 03:16:51 AM »
From what I have learned, 18th century cutlers used black pine tar pitch glue that was mixed with brick dust to fill up the void in the handles on trade knives..  I think the brick dust was supposed to give it body and strength, but that is just my speculation from reading, rather than something that was definitively written.
Gus



4 parts pitch, 1 part beeswax, and one part brick dust, or something like that. Pitch is the glue, beeswax keeps it from getting too brittle, and the dust acts as a binder (and I suspect keeps it from cracking, like sand in concrete).

I have some mixed up, but have run into trouble with my heat-treating, so I haven't had a chance to use it yet.
A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition -  Rudyard Kipling

Offline Artificer

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Re: Bone
« Reply #15 on: November 08, 2013, 06:45:17 AM »
Do you dry your @#$%/!! before you grind it?

The formlae that call for using feces nomally suggest using dry excrement, for more than one reason I wager.  Grin.
Gus