.615 round ball

[d-a]

Anyone use a .615 round ball in a 62 cal rifle? I haven't found any molds available with spru cutters for them. Im aware if getting a custom mold from England but was wondering if I'm the only one that has a need for the .615 balls.  .610 balls roll down the barrel and could be used with thicker patches but would like to stay with my same patching material.

d-a

[4ster]

I faced the same problem.  I could not find a source for .615 RB, or a mold.  So I ordered a mold from Jeff Tanner in the UK. 

I didn't like that Jeff's molds did not have sprue cutters on them but it was the only game in town. Now that I have the mold the lack of sprue cutter is a non issue for me.  I get a smoother surface at the sprue location with nippers than I do with my other molds with integral sprue cutters.  Once a batch of balls are run it takes little time to cut the sprues.

If you want to see what a Tanner ball looks like I can send you a few.  PM me if you are interested.

[Daryl]

.615" is the Lyman  mould Taylor used in his .62 Hawken for years. Not sure what his new .62 Hawken uses - probably .610" to .615".

For any barrel a ball that is .005" smaller than the bore, once loaded with a substantial patch, will be more accurate than any smaller ball can produce - this matters not if the rifling is .004", .010" or .016" deep. Use the correct patch and it will shoot all day without needing to be wiped and no, you do not need a mallet or hammer to load it.

A bore size ball will actually deliver even better accuracy, but few people develop the skill or techniques necessary for loading these combinations.

[Daryl]

Jeff Tanner (UK) will make any size you want, in a round ball mould. Simply Google Jeff Tanner Moulds and go to that site.  Receipt of the mould is usually less than 1 1/2 weeks.
I use plyer's type wire strippers for cutting off the sprues- the one with the little cuttouts for different sized wire.  Squeeze the plyers onto the sprue near the ball and twist the ball as you tighten the plyers. The resulting 'nib' does not need to be removed, or you can usually remove it with a thumb nail or swipe with a rasp.  These balls can be loaded any-which-i-way - no sprue to locate and orient straight up.

[d-a]

Will a brass mold last as long and cast as good a ball as a steel or aluminum mold?


d-a

[Maven]

It will outlast you (or me...I have 4) if you don't mistreat it.  Jeff Tanner is certainly a viable option (I have 2 Tanner RB moulds) since I don't think Lyman/Ideal or Lee produced many of that diameter.

[Dphariss]

Will a brass mold last as long and cast as good a ball as a steel or aluminum mold?


d-a

Probably as good as iron. Aluminum does not have a good track record with me.
Iron or brass is likely a lifetime tool. I have a Tanner mould and its a quality piece. Payment is easy and delivery was fast.
I just remembered I need a .615 too. Have a rebored GM in 62. Guess I should slug it first.

Dan

[Dphariss]

Lyman has .610 moulds on their site got 90 bucks fortunately I have time to do more looking.
Dan

[d-a]

Pendersoli makes a brass .615 with a sprue cutter and it's sold only thru dixie gun works that I can tell.

d-a

[smylee grouch]

I have been told that aluminum molds arn't as good as iron/steel but have never been told why. What kinds of problems do people have with their aluminum molds?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

My Lyman .610" iron mould casts a pure lead ball at .613"...it's perfect for my .62 cal Rice barreled Hawken.  I use a .022" denim patch and it loads easily.

[omark]

I dont believe an aluminum will stand up as well as a steel, but I cant usually make myself pass up the price.   Mark

[Daryl]

My last large calibre Lyman mould purchased was a .570"- which casts, in VERY pure lead, .574" X .574"-balls of perfect size for any true .580 cal rifle, like my .58 Kodiak - with 10 ounce, ie: .0225" patches and easy loading.  The same balls are a bit large in my .577" (actually .574") Enfield, but are quite useable and very accurate- same patch, even though the rifling is only .003" deep at the muzzle, .011" at the breech.  The patches don't burn in the deeper breech grooves or cut at the muzzle when starting, so I think the balls actually must obturate- at least a bit.