looking for info on a 32 cal rifle I have that was made by J Stapelton

[Submariner]

i came across a nice old caplock that has a j stapelton barrel and a Glosher lock on it. 

Maybe some one could give me some info on timeline for when this gun was built.

It shoots better then I can aim. and hit the target more often then not.

what would be a good powder charge for the 32 cal?

[Ky-Flinter]

Hi Wayne,

Welcome to ALR.  The book "American Firearms Makers" by A. Merwyn Carey lists "James Stapelton, about 1860.  Percussion rifle maker in Huntingdon County, Penna."  No other info is given.  This may or may not be your man, but the spelling of the last name is the same.

If you could post pictures of your rifle, some of the more knowledgable members here may be able to give you their educated guess as to when and where the rifle was made.

-Ron

[Dphariss]

Start with 25 gr and work from there. FFF.
I would recommend it be proved with a significant overload before shooting it.
I have had old guns that looked sound but had "leaks" when fired.
Dan

[Hungry Horse]

 I would not recommend an overload in an antique gun. I would recommend taking it to a competent gunsmith, with a good working knowledge of muzzleloaders, and have him check it out. Quality standards of workmanship, and questionable quality of materials used, back in the day, could result in injury to you or your gun, or both. Much better safe than sorry.

                       Hungry Horse

[drago]

If you do proof it, do it remote with a pull string. I would just test it and stick with light loads. Proofing it could possibly start a problem that could get worse with regular loads. Just my opinion and worth about half the cost. Maybe someone with experience can help you check it out in person.

[Ky-Flinter]

It shoots better then I can aim. and hit the target more often then not.

Sounds to me like he's already been shooting it, and with acceptable results.

-Ron

[Longknife]

From "THE KENTUCKY RIFLE AND ME" by Edith Cooper...James Stapleton 1833-1900, Wife Sarah, 1838-1914. " At Beavertown near the village of Todd stands the home and shop of James Stapleton. Stapleton was a fine blacksmith and excellent machinist. He had the ability to fabricate most any style of rifle a customer would desire.....Many of his rifles carried coiled rattlesnake inlays and a violin. The violin was from one of his other accomplishments; he was the violin player in the Todd square dance orchestra."....There are several guns by Stapleton pictured including a nice SXS rifle and a couple of O/U's. His shop is also picture which was still standing (but in poor shape) at time of printing in 1977.....Ed

[Dphariss]

I would not recommend an overload in an antique gun. I would recommend taking it to a competent gunsmith, with a good working knowledge of muzzleloaders, and have him check it out. Quality standards of workmanship, and questionable quality of materials used, back in the day, could result in injury to you or your gun, or both. Much better safe than sorry.

                       Hungry Horse

Its impossible to inspect and insure its safe. Just not possible.
Many years ago I bought a side by side rifle-shotgun that had been bored smooth on the rifle side.
Pulled the breeches and it looked OK reinstalled and fired both barrel remotely. The  lower rib blew down at the breech. No real damage anywhere, don't think I ever found the leak. But there was one.
So unless it will stand a proof load I am not going to put it next to my head and set it off.
And even then.....
Its either sound or its not. The SIMPLE way to avoid this is to do as I do, tell everyone. "No old gun is safe to shoot". So bring me an antique and I will tell you not too shoot it.
This includes breechloaders as well. Like 1873 Win  and 1893 Marlins etc. Why? Because I am not going to tell someone that an old gun is safe because its impossible to determine EVEN WITH PROVING. A look at the flaws in some old Winchester or Marlin (especially the ones marked "Blackpowder") bores should be enough but some people don't understand the significance of "forging lines" in a barrel. Proving finds gross flaws but will not prevent bad metallurgy from causing failures at some later time. This has been known for a long time. W. Greener in "The Gun" 1835 mentions proved guns failing in service and thought it was the fault of the proof process when in reality its metallurgy.
So proving an old gun (or a new one) will find serious flaws but it will not assure the gun is truly safe if it has purity issues or the steel is too brittle when pressure is applied.
So people shoot old guns at their own risk. I will not OK this as safe and any gunsmith that does needs to talk to a lawyer who understands old guns about liability.

Dan

[klb67]

Your post caught my attention.  James Stapleton was my great great great uncle.  I'm no expert, but am starting to learn about him and guns from Huntingdon County, where I grew up.  Another Stapleton heir and collector who IS an expert has been a tremendous help, and has gotten me started in my Stapleton collection.  I'd love to see pictures of your rifle. 

[Nate McKenzie]

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=12510.0