Kibler on the Blog

[Ryan McNabb]

Thanks for the specifics on Reaves' hardware.  It's a standout rifle.

Which rifle is the "Woodsrunner"?  Is it the same as the feather rifle?  I have an idea it's the fowler-looking rifle Wallace owned but I can't find an answer to this.

[doulos]

I know very little about gun building. But Jim Kibler's rifles are always eye catching to me. His carving always seems to flow so naturally with the lines and architecture of the rifle itself. The carving always seems crisp in outline but soft at the same time ,IF THAT MAKES SENSE. I really love his coloring also. Just wow!!

[B Shipman]

I like everything about this gun. The grace and composition of the carving is about as good as it gets.

[davec2]

Jim,

Another question...I have come by a Rice barrel - 42 inch, swamped, .54 cal, round bottom rifling, Golden age / York profile, "C" weight (breech is 1.070" and waist is 0.820").  Not quite as long or as swamped as your rifle.  I have an option to buy a Rice 44 inch, swamped, .54 cal, round bottom rifling, Lancaster / Dickert profile, "C" weight (breech is 1.062" and waist is 0.794").  I would think the latter is a closer match to the barrel you used, but I thought I would ask your opinion.

Thanks

Dave C

[Jim Kibler]

Thanks guys.  This stuff is a lot of hard work, so it certainly feels good to hear others appreciate it.  As far as barrels go, I would think the 44" Dickert profile would be a little better than the Golden Age.  The narrower waist and larger breech gives things a nice shape.  Yes, the "Woodsrunner" rifle is the one Wallace had that was attributed to Shenandoah County, Va.  This is the gun with strong trade gun or fowling piece architecture.  Thanks again everyone.  Glad I might be able to help a bit.

Jim

[Jim Kibler]

Jeff,

Sorry I missed your question.  I usually scrape the whole gun then raise the grain and scrape it again.  Next it will be carved.  I don't raise the grain anymore after carving.  Too much work.  I just then stain with the nitric (iron nitrate solution).  I apply the nitric with a piece of scotchbrite and rub fairly hard while applying it.  This tends to smooth things out.  After heating I'll probably go over it a bit more with a piece of scotchbrite.  For a really difficult piece of wood, you can sand or scrape after applications of nitric.  I'll then seal with oil and burnish hard with a piece of antler or hard piece of wood.  That's about it.  If I've missed anything , let me know.

Jim

[J. Talbert]

Jim,

Thanks for that info.  I hope to put it to use here very soon.

Much appreciated,
Jeff

[Don Getz]

Jim has a lot of skills that are difficult for the average gunbuilder to obtain.  He has a lot of artistic ability, imagination, and
has learned the skills to pull it off.   Years ago I was talking to Monte Mandaarino, he said the most difficult thing in gun building was drawing the carving.  I jokingly told Jim that he was John Bivins re-born, there are a lot of similarities in their
work.  After looking at guns like this, you can understand why I build barn guns............Don

[davec2]

Jim,

I am in the process of gathering parts to build a copy of your rifle.  I blew up the photos to full scale and have the butt plate, trigger guard, lock, and a barrel.  The stock wood is en route from Dunlap.  However, I wanted to check again with you on the barrel length.  I have scaled things six ways to Sunday from the photos and I keep getting a barrel length of 35 to 36 inches and not 43...?...which doesn't sound right to me at all.  Can you verify the barrel length for me?

Thanks

Dave C

[Jim Kibler]

Yep, 43" barrel.  Not sure what the deal is.  But plate is probably 4.75-4.875" high.  Pull is probably around 13.5".

[Dennis Glazener]

Sunday from the photos and I keep getting a barrel length of 35 to 36 inches and not 43...Huh?...which doesn't sound right to me at all.  Can you verify the barrel length for me?

Thanks

Dave C

Dave C,
Just for grins I used a LOP of 13.5 inches and the barrel length comes out close to yours at 35.09" which is wrong as was yours! I used the same photo editor that I have used before. Prior to this one I always came very close to the original used in the photo. Not sure what is causing it.
Dennis

[davec2]

Dennis,

Yes, I blew up the photo of the butt to the lock area to full size by using the lock plate length of 6.010".  With the lock in the photo exactly full size, the LOP is 13.25 inches.  But that ratio still gives me a barrel length of ~ 36 inches.  I can't figure this one out.  What ever, I am building a copy with a 44 inch barrel that I just got from Rice.