lock plate molding particulars

[Brokenhand]

I am not quite sure how to ask this question, but here goes. Lock plate molding. Rough out your stock. Molding profile pretty much the same on the lock side and the decorative plate side. The lock side height of the molding is determined by the lock plate thickness, so make it the same on both sides, right? My lock has a bevel around the perimeter of the plate except for an area right behind the pan. I want the top of the molding to stop at the bevel and have the plate actually proud of the molding, but be flush with it at the area behind the pan where there is no bevel. Here is the meat of my question. When I take the top of the molding down to the bevel on the lock side, does it make the opposite side molding look taller and if so, is that proper? Should I make the decorative plate side thinner than the thickness of the lock plate to begin? Am I making a mountain out of a mole hill, as my dad used to say? Maybe this makes sense to somebody. I have several books and I don't think I have seen this addressed. Thanks, Brad

[galamb]

Brad, "in general" the panels on the lock side and opposite (sideplate) side are the same width/length/height and are parallel.

But, in some cases these panels may be wider (if the "thickness" was measured from one side across the barrel to the other side) at the front (ahead of the breech) in comparison to back near the wrist.

Also, on a number of original rifles, the "thickness" of the sideplate panel is somewhat "less" than the lock side.

What I mean is, your lock panel may need to be .250" (deep) to accommodate the lockplate/bolster etc - once the lock is snugged up against the barrel and have the wood come flush with the either the bevel or outer edge of the lock plate.

In that case the opposite panel, side plate side, may be as thin a .180" - it need not be "equal" to the lock side.

But that is dependent on what you are building - are you following a specific rifle, builder etc.

I build some cast-off in to each of my stocks - so the butt stock is on an angle from the butt plate to the nose of the comb.

I just find that if I make the side plate panel somewhat "thinner" than the lock side that it doesn't look like a "lump" sticking out the side immediately after the point where the stock straightens out again to follow the bore of the barrel.

Plus, having a thinner panel on the side plate side allows a smoother (curve) immediately behind the upper oblique flat of the barrel (between that flat and the tang).

If your entire plate is not beveled on the edge, or there is some different thicknesses, I would make it flush to the bevel (or extreme outer edge) and then leave everything else "proud" - it will look fine.

[Stuartg]

I just finished my first rifle, a Lancaster, and made mine the same on both sides. I cut a template on the lock plate side and transferred that to the side plate side. When showing a few pics a couple members said I needed to slim down the side plate side, as it looked too wide...hmmm.

This made me measure things 3-4 times to ensure I didn't transfer it incorrectly. Sure enough, they were the same, it was only the appearance of the side plate side being too thick. This leads me to believe that maybe I should've went by how it simply looked.

One good point of advice from a longtime and well known builder told me to slightly bend in the side plate to flow more with the wrist. I may give this a try next time.