browning

[little joe]

Laurel mountain Forge browning. How do you guys kill or stop it working. I,m having trouble.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I just wipe it with a strong solution of baking soda and water. Wipe it on and wash it off. Then oil the barrel or wax it or put on a coat of finish. If it doesn't stop do it over.

[ehoff]

To add to what Micah posted, go buy a new box of baking soda and rinse with boiling water.

[smallpatch]

Boiling water is not a good idea.  Thats the difference between rust brown and rust black.  I know it takes a little longer than that to turn black, but why risk it?  Warm wart will do just as well.

[Pete G.]

Wipe down with household ammonia.

[ehoff]

Smallpatch is right about not using boiling water, I ment to write lots of warm water. The kettle was boiling on the stove, and I hadn't had my morning caffeinated beverage when I made my post.

[RichG]

I second the household ammonia

[eddillon]

I make a paste of fresh baking soda and water.  Rub it with a facecloth.  Neutralizes and removes loose rust..  Then warm water and mild soap.  Rinse with warm velar water.  Wipe dry and apply Johnson's paste wax while still warm.

[Curtis]

I have had similar problems when browning a barrel, wanted to continue a slow rust even after washing, neutralizing and oiling.  Tried a couple different oils.  Still had rust forming.  Talked with Jack Brooks about it and he recommended using linseed oil.  The rusting stopped after I used it...  used it ever since and it just seems to work for some reason.  Give it a try and see how it works for you.

Curtis

[Ky-Flinter]

I make a paste of fresh baking soda and water.  Rub it with a facecloth.  Neutralizes and removes loose rust..  Then warm water and mild soap.  Rinse with warm velar water.  Wipe dry and apply Johnson's paste wax while still warm.

I've never heard of velar water?  What is that?

-Ron

[fastfrankie]

      He hit the wrong key when typing the "v" is right next to the "c".
    I think he meant to type in vear water.....oops I meant CLEAR WATER.

[Gaeckle]

I have had similar problems when browning a barrel, wanted to continue a slow rust even after washing, neutralizing and oiling.  Tried a couple different oils.  Still had rust forming.  Talked with Jack Brooks about it and he recommended using linseed oil.  The rusting stopped after I used it...  used it ever since and it just seems to work for some reason.  Give it a try and see how it works for you.

Curtis

This works.........it's what I use

[Ky-Flinter]

      He hit the wrong key when typing the "v" is right next to the "c".
    I think he meant to type in vear water.....oops I meant CLEAR WATER.

Thanks!  That makes perfect sense.

-Ron

[eddillon]

      He hit the wrong key when typing the "v" is right next to the "c".
    I think he meant to type in vear water.....oops I meant CLEAR WATER.

Thanks Fastfrankie.  Exactly correct.

[davec2]

I use soda ash (sodium carbonate)...a little stronger base than sodium bicarbonate (baking soda).  Haven't tried the ammonia.

[Ky-Flinter]

Where can one purchase soda ash (sodium carbonate)?  Thanks.

-Ron

[WadePatton]

Where can one purchase soda ash (sodium carbonate)?  Thanks.

-Ron

amazon
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Asodium%20carbonate

ebay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=sodium%20carbonate&clk_rvr_id=687686534710

etc, those are the first two places i look for anything.

[Chuck Burrows]

Where can one purchase soda ash (sodium carbonate)?  Thanks.

-Ron

It's also available at most grocery stores, etc. in the laundry section under the name of Washing Soda - Arm and Hammer is the most common brand

Here's an image of the box
http://www.armandhammer.com/fabric-care/laundry-boosters/Products/arm-and-hammer-super-washing-soda-detergent-booster.aspx

FWIW though ammonia works the best followed by a coat or two of boiled linseed oil - I prefer the real heat polymerized stuff as made by Tried and True