Author Topic: More patchbox hassles  (Read 3615 times)

Offline Curt Larsen

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More patchbox hassles
« on: August 30, 2014, 07:25:02 PM »
OK, patch boxes seem to be my greatest hassle.  I've worked out most of my spring problems, but here is a recurring issue.  I just can't seem to get screws for the finials to go in perpendicular to the stock so the heads never seat well in my countersinks.  I drill a pilot hole with a 1/16" pin drill, then use a series of gimlets to open up the hole for the proper sized screw.  No matter what I try, I can rarely get the screw heads to seat in the countersinks properly.  I've plugged holes and redrilled, but I still can't seem to get it right.  Any tips?  Right now I'm finishing up an 1803 Harpers Ferry.  I've noted that the originals often had the screw heads  filed off flush, but to do that you'll end up marring the surface of the patch box finial.  If it isn't one thing, it's another.
Curt

Offline E.vonAschwege

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Re: More patchbox hassles
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2014, 08:59:09 PM »
As I was reading your predicament I was thinking to myself "just file the heads off flush when you're done with the installation" - then I got to your part about marring up the patchbox.  I install inlays and other parts roughly finished, then file off the screw heads flush, scrape the seam between inlay and wood, and then do final finishing and polishing of the brass parts afterwards.  One trick if you don't want to mar the brass is to put a thin layer of masking tape where the file will eventually hit the brass.  When you've hit the tape, stop filing, remove the screw, then carefully file the head down that last tiny bit.  Buttplates, triggerguards, and toeplates get the same treatment with the heads filed flush. 
-Eric
Former Gunsmith, Colonial Williamsburg www.vonaschwegeflintlocks.com

Offline Lucky R A

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Re: More patchbox hassles
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2014, 10:10:19 PM »
Curt do as Eric said but for the last final little bit, try chucking your screw in your cordless drill.  Set a small piece of 150-220 grit sand paper on a piece of folded over cloth.  Now start your drill and push the head of the screw into the sandpaper on the cloth.  This will clean up the top of your screw and give you an ever so slight dome head to your screw.  It is easily controllable and results in a nice finished look to the screw head and no marring of the patchbox material by trying to file too closely,
Ron
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Offline WKevinD

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Re: More patchbox hassles
« Reply #3 on: August 31, 2014, 04:34:23 AM »
Quote
 "This will clean up the top of your screw and give you an ever so slight dome head to your screw.  It is easily controllable and results in a nice finished look to the screw head and no marring of the patchbox"
Ron

Ron, nice little tip, I really like the simplicity of the technique. I've just been going thru this with toe-plate screws. I'll try it tomorrow.
Kevin
« Last Edit: August 31, 2014, 05:48:48 AM by Ky-Flinter »
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Offline J. Talbert

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Re: More patchbox hassles
« Reply #4 on: August 31, 2014, 05:32:21 AM »
I think you may be defeating the purpose of using a gimlet.
I don't drill a pilot hole with an electric drill.  The benefit of the gimlet is that it is easier to control the angle, than with a drill, but it's likely to follow the path of the pilot hole much like a screw would.

I'd try omitting the electric drill and use only the gimlet.

Jeff
There are no solutions.  There are only trade-offs.”
Thomas Sowell

Offline Curt Larsen

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Re: More patchbox hassles
« Reply #5 on: August 31, 2014, 04:20:52 PM »
Well, I'm glad others have my problem.  I will try these ideas and not try to be a perfectionist.  By the way, I don't use any power when I'm drilling.  I generally use a pin drill from an exacto set to try to get the hole started correctly and then follow with a gimlet.  Your advice on the gimlet following the pilot hole is a good one though.  OK, now I'm going to charge ahead and finish this rifle.  Thanks,
Curt

Offline jerrywh

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Re: More patchbox hassles
« Reply #6 on: September 01, 2014, 01:51:44 AM »
 In looking at a drill you can detect if it is vertical to your left or right but it is nearly impossible to detect if it is leaning towards you or away from you. Then as you attempt to look from the other direction you cannot maintain the position you had looking at it as you were before.
 To solve this problem I drill a 1/8" hole in a rectangular piece of wood about 3/4" thick on the drill press. That gives me a vertical hole in the block.   I put the drill bit down through the hole and position it where I want the hole in the stock and lay the block on the stock. That block will hold the drill bit vertical as long as you keep it tight against the stock. Now you only have to judge if the bit is vertical to your left or right.
that is much easier.
I  hope this helps. PS- Jacob Dickert had a drill press
« Last Edit: September 01, 2014, 01:53:51 AM by jerrywh »
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