Author Topic: poured inlay/ infill  (Read 5356 times)

Offline Nordnecker

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poured inlay/ infill
« on: September 25, 2014, 02:40:28 PM »
My next gun is gonna have poured pewter inlay/infill- diamonds, crescent moons, stars and such. So I thought I'd practice on a scrap. I chiseled out a nice little diamond, undercutting the edges. I used a # 2 pecil around the depression, then melted some lead free solder in a spoon.
The melted solder just blobbed up and sat there. It wasn't smooth, it was grainy like sand. Maybe I got it too hot???
So, I dug it out and tried again. Put a little flux in the spoon and melted some more. I tried to pre-heat the wooden area, but it still didn't fill the depression. I mashed it in there with the spoon and it sort of worked. I gently tapped the cooling metal with a small ball peen hammer.
I let it cool and filed it flush with the wood. The solder didn't quite fill the corners, but felt tight and solid in the hole.
I tried a crescent moon and it was a disaster. I'm only chiseling about 1/16" deep.
Any ideas as to what I might try to do to make this work better?
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Offline stuart cee dub

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2014, 05:09:39 PM »
Pouring in an inlay is unusual ,but that aside if I were to try it .I would build a dam (a ''tinkers dam'' actually ) around and a bit above the area you wish to pour into .
After cooling file off the excess much as one would if you were pouring a nose cap.
Like casting a bullet you need to keep pouring even after the mold is full,filling it out and not letting it cool too quickly  .

From your brief description it sounds like you are trying to pour to the desired finish level or not much above it .Am I envisioning this correctly ?

Secondly what are you using for pewter ? I have poured quite a few nosecaps using Track's non toxic alloy and never had an issue .But I have also heard that some have tried cutting up and melting second hand pewter tankards (the ones with the glass bottoms ) with some success .Might be your solder is not the alloy to use .

Regards Stuart
  
« Last Edit: September 25, 2014, 05:12:30 PM by stuart cee dub »

Offline Captchee

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2014, 05:24:39 PM »
     In order for the  pour to flow in  the bed , you have to have pressure forcing the flow  into the bed  ..
  One way of creating that pressure  is to  create a dam/ reservoir above the bed . The result is that the  liquid  creates weight .  This weight creates pressure on the  pour below it , forcing it into the bed .

 Myself , I seldom  do pours for inlays . You get a much nicer job  and its a lot quicker to just do an inlay . But there are some cases where I have poured right to the stock . Mostly for nose caps , Tang inlays .

 First :I don’t under cut . The reason for that is that the pour  will need to be filed down . Ifthe pour did not fully flow tightly into the under cut , when you file and clean things up , you will find a hole .
 Instead what I do is  use a couple small   large  head pins in the bottom of the bed , just off the bottom  of the bed , Or  drill a couple interlocking  holes .

Second : I  take a pencil and  coat the  sides and any small areas with the carbon / lead  . This helps the  pour flow more easily into the small areas .

Third :  I  let the detail of the  bed , dictate the size of the reservoir. The greater the  detail ,  the larger the reservoir. For higher fine detail or when  I am  doing a pour that’s around another  material , like Brass ,  I’ll sometimes make the reservoir  large enough to hold 2-3 times   what’s  needed  to fill the bed
.In doing so  you actually can get very fine detail .

 So lets say im doing a pewter  inlay  around a tang   to hide ???? Well in this case an issue “????“on a cheep pistol .


 Ill  draw my design . Carve out the bed . Then using  a piece of cardboard  card stock ,  tape it a tightly to the stock  so as to make a cup   that will hold the pour to the tang area . While at the same time , creating a reservoir. It must be tight  so that it will not leak .
 In this cae the photo is of a nose cap pour , but  it’s the same  for a tang . Just picture  the  resulting cup looking more like a  swallow/ birds nest built against a  wall .


 With the  barrel and tang   in place , I then pour the pewter  into the cup .  Tell full .  Once  cool I remove the  cardboard. Then clean up the inlay  by filing and sanding it to shape .

 





 With alittle practice  and a mind to keeping  the needed weight/ pressure , so as to force the pour into the  small  shape details , one can actually cast  smaller , finer shapes  right on the stock .







 As I said in the beginning , I don’t do this much . Its a lot harder to  do and do right  then just  inletting a  something into the wood

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2014, 05:29:03 PM »
Proof beyond doubt that a silk purse comes from a sows ear.
Bob Roller

Offline Captchee

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2014, 05:29:30 PM »
OOOPS . i see a post was made while i was posting .
when it comes to  pewter , I  reclaim pewter from  items like  belt buckles ,  old dishes . Candle sticks ….. Or as was suggested tankards. The thing is though you want to make sure  what your melting down isn’t   worth  a lot of money . Some of the older pewter   items are  getting rather valuable  

Offline Captchee

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2014, 05:32:15 PM »
Proof beyond doubt that a silk purse comes from a sows ear.
Bob Roller

LOL , thank Bob .
 but  there was a whole lot of labrador  piles on the ground  prior to  figuring out how to  ring a couple strands of silk from all that sows ear LOL

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #6 on: September 25, 2014, 06:07:00 PM »
Captchee,
From Germany comes a saying that sorta translates as "From $#@*,gold you can not make".
You have come close to laying this aside as fiction.Fine doin's.

Bob Roller

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #7 on: September 25, 2014, 06:15:33 PM »
 I am glad I am not the only person investing precious time on one of these entry level kit guns. I use them to experiment on, before I try a technique on an expensive piece of wood or expensive barrel. I enjoy giving them to some young, bright eyed pilgrim, just to see their reaction.

                Hungry Horse

John C IND

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2014, 04:16:32 AM »
Old silverplated stuff like old banged up bowling trophies from the 1930's worked for me on a poured forend tip.
A local junkyard had a barrel of 'em when I was a kid.

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: poured inlay/ infill
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2014, 04:54:06 AM »
I have found fluxing the melt with plumber's rosin flux helps tremendously in getting a nice clean, easy pour.
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Offline Dphariss

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« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2014, 05:48:37 AM »
My next gun is gonna have poured pewter inlay/infill- diamonds, crescent moons, stars and such. So I thought I'd practice on a scrap. I chiseled out a nice little diamond, undercutting the edges. I used a # 2 pecil around the depression, then melted some lead free solder in a spoon.
The melted solder just blobbed up and sat there. It wasn't smooth, it was grainy like sand. Maybe I got it too hot???
So, I dug it out and tried again. Put a little flux in the spoon and melted some more. I tried to pre-heat the wooden area, but it still didn't fill the depression. I mashed it in there with the spoon and it sort of worked. I gently tapped the cooling metal with a small ball peen hammer.
I let it cool and filed it flush with the wood. The solder didn't quite fill the corners, but felt tight and solid in the hole.
I tried a crescent moon and it was a disaster. I'm only chiseling about 1/16" deep.
Any ideas as to what I might try to do to make this work better?

Some lead free solders don't pour well. I use Silva-Bright 100. But all these are fairly high temp you might try pure tine. You will have to build a dam around the inlay to give some head pressure. It might also be necessary to leave the metal a little high then burnish to fill the inlet then final shape. I don't like doing inlays like this and the higher temps of the various lead free solders will not make it easier.

Dan
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