OOOOPPS

[yip]

i bought a large siler lock kit, after putting together several before i thought a piece of cake,RIGHT! while drilling the pan and frizzen and being half asleep, i drilled straight through with a #9 bit, now i got to order a new pan, i'm sooo embarassed, now a gotta order another pan , any ideas? i can use a 10/32 instead of a 8/32 i guess...yip

[Mark Elliott]

Been there, done that.   Swallow your pride and just order a new pan.   I am sure Jim Chambers has made a few ooopps himself.   I don't think he will judge you.

[E.vonAschwege]

Heat it up and peen it tighter, run the tap through, should give plenty of thread depth for holding the bolt in place, then re-shape the pan leg to suit.  Some custom Siler locks I've seen (not assembled by Chambers) merely have an unthreaded pin with a head on it that fits in place where the screw would go.  The pin won't fall out because the lock is up tight against the barrel.  Just food for thought, I've definitely made some big oopses before as well on locks 
-Eric

[retired fella]

I was talking to Jim C at Friendship in September having just completed one of his Siler kits.  Told him it only took about 10 hours to put together and of which 4 hours were spent on all fours looking for the fly on the shop floor.  Both of us had a laugh out of that.

[flinchrocket]

Another option would be to make a 10/32 shouldered screw and have a unbridled pan/ frizzen !

[sqrldog]

I have a Walt Cain assembled Siler that uses a shouldered pin to hold the frizzen. He was one of the best lock assemblers. His locks are really smooth and slick too bad he's gone and no longer makes locks and triggers. Took me a while to figure the pin out I first thought he had ground the head off the screw. It was.a real "duh" moment when I got the pin out. Works quite well. Tim

[E.vonAschwege]

I have a Walt Cain assembled Siler that uses a shouldered pin to hold the frizzen.

That's who I was thinking of - I handled a lock of his and it was first rate, really as good as it gets. 
-Eric

[yip]

  sqrldog; please explain, i'm a little thick,

[E.vonAschwege]

Yip,    Instead of a threaded screw, as is standard on the Siler, Cain used a pin with a head on it.  The part on the pan that should be threaded is instead milled smooth to the same dimension as the frizzen (with the tight clearance bit).  The pin still has a shoulder/head, just like a screw, but no slot for a driver since it's not threaded.  The lock being against the barrel, combined with the frizzen tension, keep the in from slipping out.  I think it's a good solution to your oops if you have the ability to make a new pin instead of the screw. 

[yip]

  its done as we speak.thanks to all for their help............yip            in the words of Forest Gump " stupid is what stupid does" i should have thunk before i doed it

[Bob Roller]

I have a Walt Cain assembled Siler that uses a shouldered pin to hold the frizzen. He was one of the best lock assemblers. His locks are really smooth and slick too bad he's gone and no longer makes locks and triggers. Took me a while to figure the pin out I first thought he had ground the head off the screw. It was.a real "duh" moment when I got the pin out. Works quite well. Tim

 Walter Cain did a fine job on these Germanic locks and I had him send me some
 business cards to send to those who wanted me to make them.When I was making
 the Shoults/Ketland lock on a regular basis I used a 4/0 taper pin with the big end
 going against the barrel.It was a simple way and cost 5 cents per pin.I am now
 finishing the last of these locks for a Western customer and will be glad to see it
 done and gone.

 Bob Roller