TOF , nothing personal in any way . Im sorry if you think I did .
the reason i ask if you would like to see the different bolsters is that i have taken the time to photograph all 3 together do to being ask about them so many times . its easier to show then exsplain .
Respectfully you also said
That's why it's a crapshoot when people decide they are going to convert their gun to flint Only the early barrels with a standard drum will work and you don't know which one you've got until it's removed. Otherwise, you've just got a huge fouling trap from the threaded hole on the offside of the breech.
As I pointed out , all the drums will work for a conversion. The longer one have to be done differently or you will end up with that fouling trap .
While what Taylor said is true in that you have to remove the bolster before removing the plug , one should also keep in mind that the CVA plugs and bolsters are were not hand fit . They are fit to the barrels using a friction machine . IE the plug is not wrenched , its turned by machine which applies pressure while at the same time turning the plug by friction .This added to the slight taper of the plug can cause issues that folks don’t plan on , when they try and remove them . One being the plugs can be difficult to put back in and index . The bolsters can actually turn past where they originally set.
Also because the bolster is drilled and threaded after inserting the plug , one can end up destroying the threads of the plug and barrel when they try and remove the breech plug .
Purchasing a new CVA bolster or one from Traditions or deer creek often works . But sometimes it results in the nipple not aligning properly . This is an index problem . If the bolster does need replaced , it may need fitting or a blank Cva bolster , matching the one from the rifle should be used . IE one of the 3 different ones I mentioned in my first post . Then drilled and tapped for the nipple
But I would only do that if the bolster was suspect. IE showed signs of coming lose , was lose and definitely signs of gas escaping around the back of the bolster . If none of those signs are apparent, what I would recommend is that the bolster be re-tapped for a larger nipple . They can be had in metric and standard . Myself I prefer standard mainly because I find them easier obtain locally.
As to the clean out screw . Tapping the hole to standard , will allow a simple stove bolt to be used . Just make sure to use an good quality one with anti -seize . Not one of the cheep one that are nickel plated
So please don’t feel I was offended as that’s not the case .
PS .
Yep the clean out screw is there so as to drill the flash channel .
However with the CVA clean screw , it also is used for a clean out .
Here is why .
With the longer necked CVA bolster , the flash from the cap , has to make 2, 90 deg turns .
1) from the nipple
2) from the bolster channel into the main charge .
I add the 2nd because CVA did not always drill a hole to the main charge .
In some cases its just a slit in others it’s a mall hole less then 1/8th . In yet others it’s the same size as the flash channel .
All of these may not even align true to the bore .
I have even seen them where they were not drilled at all .IE not hole to the main charge .
This combined with improper cleaning will in short order , produce a very troublesome ignition as the flash channel becomes fouled with hard carbonized fouling .
By removing the clean out screw , one can clear the channel . Which could not be done even by means of removing the bolster
Like Taylor mentioned. It would not be needed if a better bolster was used and frankly wasn’t / isn’t needed on the short necked bolster and the long necked bolsters would have been needed if Jukar would have just done a better job of aligning the hammer to the nipple or lock placement
