Another trigger question.

[red owl]

This is sort of a continuation of a prior question:  on plain (not set triggers) triggers that are retained by a pin run cross wise through two upward tabs on the trigger plate, is that an original design or replica thing?  On the trigger retained by a pin run crosswise through the stock, is there a particular term used for that style of trigger? In looking through the TOW catalog it looks like fusils or various sorts, military muskets, and some long rifles used this pin through the stock. Is that correct?
   On the trigger itself, are there any correct terms for the components? The rearward extension or horizontal arm that pushes up against the sear prong, the wide part you press with your finger, are there any terms that are correct?
   I've done one re-stock with a pinned through the stock type trigger. It was wobbling around a little so when I made the trigger plate (flat), I slowly extended the forward end of the slot so that the trigger would not flop around much- was that the pc or correct way or are there other methods?  On the trigger plate I made, someone told me that on original rifles there was often no screw at the back, the rear of the plate's edge was beveled and fit into an undercut mortise- so that's how I did it. Was that correct?
   Not much is discussed on this type trigger and trigger plate and I'd welcome any comments.  Thanks.

[outdoorsaddy]

on plain (not set triggers) triggers that are retained by a pin run cross wise through two upward tabs on the trigger plate, is that an original design or replica thing?  

According to Alexander in" The Gunsmith of Grenville..." it is original.

[red owl]

Thanks, I wasn't sure whether the tabs on a trigger plate were or were not historically correct. TOW sells such trigger plates but the tabs are higher than seen on a lot of inexpensive replicas and I think the higher pin location gives a lighter trigger pull.  There doesn't seem to be much said on these type triggers. I built a kit pistol with such and the trigger was really flopping around. I figured that was the pc reality so I accepted it.  When I built a rifle from scratch I used a pinned trigger. The slot in the wood stock was such that the free travel on the trigger was quite a bit so in making the trigger plate (flat) I stopped the forward end of the slot such that forward movement of the trigger wasn't very much and rearward movement was stopped by the sear arm. A little "jiggling" but not bad.  I think the same thing could likely be done by creating a knob on the front of the trigger blade that hit a part of the slot in the stock- stopping forward travel. How these things were done on original firearms- I have no idea.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

With a simple trigger, such as you are describing, There should be very little side to side movement in the trigger - "wobbling around".  the inlet should be tight and smooth enough to prevent lateral movement, and still allow a smooth swing of the trigger.  Forward movement is limited, again, by the inlet in the wood.

It is far better to pin the trigger through the wood, high, as in near the same level as the sear bar, than to use the commercially available 'tabbed' trigger plates that pin the trigger very close to the trigger plate.  If you are going to use a 'tabbed' trigger plate, take the English lead and make the tabs high above the plate, emulating the 'through-the-wood' system.  A refinement of this type of plate, is a fine leaf spring attached to the plate behind the trigger, that applies upward pressure on the trigger, keeping it engaged with the sear bar at all times.  This completely eliminates 'wobbling'.  But I do not think that this feature is common on 18th C. longrifles.