wood screws in pistol guards

[elk killer]

seems the wood screw to hold the lower part of the trigger guard to the stock grip always wants to strip out
even useing a correct size drill and a gimlet to get it started,
seems the hard maple of the grip dont like screws much ...
yes i know is ways to not use a screw,, but i have always liked the look,
so whats the solution?

[bob in the woods]

I don't understand re your comment about the hard maple "stripping out " . I've never had that problem . Even on a softer than maple , walnut stock; [ front of the guard with a sling swivel ]  the back screw has held fine.  Maybe your gimlet is too large ??

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Bob, that would also be my guess.  To repair, drill out the hole 5/16", glue in a hardwood dowel, when it has cured, redrill with a bit that is the minor diameter of the screw's shank, perhaps plus a few thou.  To est this theory, do an experiment into the end of a piece of maple dowel, and see how it works.  The dowel must be supported by a hole in a scrap piece of maple, or it will likely split.

[elk killer]

No its not to large, seems each time I use a screw there it strips out,

maybe I try to get it to tight
I tryed the hardwood dowel to no avail
never had  this issue with screws in maple ever before

[E.vonAschwege]

If you have a chunk of beeswax, take the screw and scrape the threads with it, then hold it over a lighter briefly to melt the wax over the threads.  It will lubricate the screw as you put it in the new hole and prevent tear out.  Try not to use the screw to pull the guard into place, it should just hold it once it is where you want it.  While you're building the gun, use undersized screws for everything, then you can enlarge to your final fit at the very end.  Hope this helps,
-Eric

[EC121]

Install the screw to cut the threads then remove it and drip a couple of drops of thin CA glue into the hole to harden the wood.  Let it harden then do the beeswax trick. 

[eddillon]

Longer screws of the same diameter.

[Long John]

elk,

When using a wood screw that will be subject to some tension stress, I tap the hole.  I have wood screws of the popular sizes that have been given a groove on the point much like the flute of a tap.  I drill a hole that is a smidgon smaller than the minor diameter of the hole, fill the hole with linseed oil and then "tap" the hole with one of my screw/taps.  I then remove the screw/tap and install a regular screw.  The linseed oil eventually hardens leaving a nice threaded hole for the screw.  When the part is removed exercise care when reinstalling to make sure that your screw picks-up the existing threads.  You don't want it making fresh threads because after a couple of removals and reinstallations the hole becomes enlarged to the point where the threads will no longer engage.

I hope this helps.

Best Regards,
John Cholin

[smart dog]

Hi Elkiller,
Does the guard fit well or are you using the screw to pull it into the inlet?  If the latter, maybe there is simply too much outward pressure on the screw.

dave

[elk killer]

i really dont know why it happins,
i get the fit as good as i can so as to not pull the guard in,,
i never have this issue on but plates or anything else
the last few pistols i have made, i have had this issue,
thanks for all the good ideas

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

The CA trick is a good one.  I use that system when installing nylon machine thread bolts like 1/4" x 20 tpi etc, in balsa for model airplane building.

[EC121]

That's where I started using CA.  Had to harden up the thin lite ply when installing servos.  I recently had to use it to harden the wood when installing a front trigger guard screw.  The wood between the TG inlet and the ramrod channel was only thick enough to catch about two or three threads.  I hardened the wood and cut the tip of the screw off and tightened her up good.  No stripping and the ramrod doesn't hit the screw.

[okieboy]

 If you know that you have this as a problem, the first thing to do is stop experimenting with complete builds and pull out some scrap for a series of experiments (longrifle science). Even though you say that the gimlet is the "correct" size, if the threads are pulling out, the pilot hole being too large is the most likely culprit. I and probably most of the people here have twisted screws in half before they seated in hard maple and learned methods for correcting it.
 I suggest that you drill a pilot of the correct size in scrap maple. If you can strip it out then drill the next hole .015-.031" smaller and try again, etcetera until you can't strip it with reasonable torque. Longer screws are obviously better if available and do not interfere.
 When you do something multiple times and it doesn't work, trying something different......

[Acer Saccharum]

It might also be that the screw is going into endgrain, not crossgrain, depending on the layout of your stock. A screw into endgrain could strip out pretty easily.

I use Long John's method of making a tap out of a spare screw.

Some of the dinky screws, like #3 or #4 really don't have much depth of thread. You could take a #6 and make the head smaller, and you will need to re-slot the head. That will give plenty of thread engagement. Again,if it's endgrain, keep your clearance hole tight, and tap it out before installing your final screw.