Entry pipe inletting advice solicited

[David Rase]

Gap-os-is.

I just learned a new word today.

I remember learning new words when I was younger.  Usually lead to my mother washing my mouth out with soap.  Can parents still do that these days or is that on the list of child abuse offenses?  Oops, off topic again.  I hate when you do that to me Tom.
David

[Dennis Glazener]

First I like to find the centerline of the ramrod groove and then remove the wood for the tab completely through to the bottom of the barrel channel.  The long tab in conjunction with the through slot works as a guide holding the position of the entry pipe stable.  The pipe can only go into the wood one way, straight down.  Another technique I use is to round the bottom half of the lower forestock as close to the final shape as possible.  Excavating an entry pipe tang deep into a square lower forestock increases the risk of gap-os-is.

Gap-os-is, love that word! I have always inletted entry pipes like Dave described above. When I saw someone's photos doing an entry pipe with the forestock still squared up I figured that was the way it should be done and I tried it. I made a big mess, bad case of gap-os-is had a terrible time making the forestock wood juncture with the entry pipe. I decided real quick never again for me!
Dennis

[Pete G.]

I found out (the hard way, as usual) that if you are going to shape the lower foreend before inletting the pipe, make certain that it is close to the final contour and is symmetrical. If the contour is not symmetrical it is all too easy to let the tab in off center due to the optical illusion, and when the final shaping is done the extension is then off center, which is a glaring error that even the most inexperienced will immediately notice.

[kaintuck]

when inletting a part.....treat it as the ONLY part, you have NO OTHER PARTS.......so you can take all the time in the world......if this is a hobby for you. cut tiny tiny parts off your wood........

marc n tomtom

[bob in the woods]

Inletting the pipes is one of the last things I do. Not only is it easier to do then, they otherwise seemed to always be in the way of all the other work being done on the fore end . 

[JCurtiss]

The two most time consuming, aggravating in letting items are the entry pipe, and the buttplate.  You are in letting two directions at once.  You are also in the end grain in several locations, so tools have to be SHARP, and you must have a repeatable way to mark them each time you put them in the inlet.

Otherwise, there is no way to get them tight.  Like Tom said, thirty rifles later......I'm gettin it.....sort of!

Dane,
I have to respectfully disagree with your statement that you are inletting in two directions at once when it comes entry pipes.  I think that is a common misconception that only adds to the aggravation during the inletting process.  I am of the opinion that an entry pipe is inlet in the downward direction only.  I like to make my own pipes from flat sheet material.  When laying out the pattern I make the tab extra long.  By making the tab this way, I am able to use it as a guide during inletting.  How do I do this you ask.  First I like to find the centerline of the ramrod groove and then remove the wood for the tab completely through to the bottom of the barrel channel.  The long tab in conjunction with the through slot works as a guide holding the position of the entry pipe stable.  The pipe can only go into the wood one way, straight down.  Another technique I use is to round the bottom half of the lower forestock as close to the final shape as possible.  Excavating an entry pipe tang deep into a square lower forestock increases the risk of gap-os-is.  Following the advice of others I then use a transfer medium and work the pipe down into position a bit at a time. I am careful to continue to remove any wood standing proud of the metal finial during the process.  This helps to eliminate widening the inlet due to keeping the inlet depth shallow.  The deeper the inlet, the better your chances are of skewing the chisel cuts and causing gaps in the inlet.  Once the entry pipe is completely inlet I pin the pipe in place and then cut/file the tab flush with the bottom barrel flat.  A long pipe that is up against the bottom flat of the barrel is never going to loosen up and rock.
David      

d
David,
Now that makes perfect sense; I learned a great deal from this discussion and from your post in particular!
Jason

[blackjack]

Okay, this is the inletted entry pipe after a weekend's work and a LOT of advice.  Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions.  If nothing else, they served to slow me down and make me think about what I was doing.  This pipe looks a LOT better than the previous ones I've done although I'm sure Peter Alexander would still have heartburn over it.  It looks good in the rough and the rod slides in and out smoothly, with just a little drag.  Anyway,... reveal:





Starting work on the front pipes tonight.

[Acer Saccharum]

Blackjack, congrats on improved process. That's what this is all about.

I do see a problem with the pipe itself. I look at your second photo, and it looks like the tail of the pipe swells then shrinks, giving it a wavy appearance. Most of the tail is just a little lower than the wood, but the section just before the end of the tail is quite low. This is not going to look good when you shape the fore stock down.

 I suggest you take the pipe out and with a soft mallet, gently tap that skirt over a round piece of iron pipe or steel various to get the waviness out of it. Yes, you will probably have to re-fit the skirt, but I think you'll be more satisfied in the end.

[blackjack]

Right AC, see what you mean.  I'll give it some attention tomorrow.  Tks.

[Acer Saccharum]

Sometimes the thimble skirt gets deformed during the inlet process, and you don't notice it. How do I know about these things?