Bob Roller Locks

[flatsguide]

I have heard so many compliments regarding the function and craftsmanship of Bob Roller’s locks but have not seen any photos...could someone or Bob post some photos of his locks please? Flintlocks look like a deceptively simple mechanisms. Besides the properly hardened parts, proper fit of bearing surfaces, and temper of springs; what are the details about the more subtle things I’m learning on this forum such as the lock geometry and spring balance?
Thanks Richard

[heinz]

free photo uploading

[heinz]

They speak for themselves

[heinz]

PS, the triggers are just as well made

[flatsguide]

Wow! Now I see what all the hubbub is about. Very intricate work. I wonder what alloy of steel he uses for the different parts?
Thanks for the photos Heinz
Cheers Richard

PS. Can you tell me a bit about the lock that is in the picture that is fourth down. I wonder if Bob used an existing lock plate,frizzen and hammer and the he made the internal parts.
Thanks

[adam h]

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=60347.0

[Bob Roller]

Wow! Now I see what all the hubbub is about. Very intricate work. I wonder what alloy of steel he uses for the different parts?
Thanks for the photos Heinz
Cheers Richard

PS. Can you tell me a bit about the lock that is in the picture that is fourth down. I wonder if Bob used an existing lock plate,frizzen and hammer and the he made the internal parts.
Thanks

These pictures represent my ideas about lock making and tell the owners what I
thought of them as buyers and users.I made the last two in August of 2019 and
that was IT.I have no plans to revive them.A local man offered me $1000 if I would make
two more and I turned him down.
The plates and external parts first came from Harold Hess,now deceased and were
at first used by Chet Shoults of Lapeer,Michigan.There were several other from Hess
such as a Ketland with a double throated cock and heavy frizzen and then a Maslin.
A few were based on a lock from Canada by John Clark and then I also used the external
parts from three of the L&R line and they were the small Manton.Durs Egg and the late
English sometimes called an Ashmore.
  Cap locks were a wider variety and I have made common ones like the Goulcher and then
a variety of Hawken locks with whatever hammers were available that were suitable and
one type had a cast plate taken from a original J&S Hawken from 1849 or earlier.In 1987
I started making by request the Stanton styled lock with a 4 screw fishtail bridle and a 3
screw variant.Most of these went on English style long range target rifles and then there
were smaller scaled one for boys rifles or maybe pistols.
 All the mechanisms were bench crafted and no cast parts ever even if requested.I used
1018 for the caplock plates and all bridles no matter how plain or fancy were 1018 cold
finished steel.Sears and flys were 0-1 flat ground oil hardening "tool steel" and tumblers
were 1144 "Stressproof". 1144 machines like 12L14 or Ledloy and oil hardens like drill rod.
Screws were mostly 12L14 which IS screw material.
In the late 1960's the Hawken rifle became the big interest and I have no idea as to how many
locks and triggers I made but it was more thn a few.I also went a number of specialized locks
and triggers to Germany but no longer do.
My shop work now is only a few triggers each month and that is all.Maybe someone can post
pictures of these triggers and the fancy English style locks so they can be seen again.
I almost forgot about springs,mostly 1075,
Bob Roller

[flatsguide]

Adam, thank you for that link!
Bob, thank you for the write up with that info, when I get started, hopefully, you will let me pick your brain on how you hold some of the parts for machining such as do you make the tumble blank in one setup on the lathe such as OD, clearance relief cuts on either side and both axles. Thank you again for sharing your information.
Cheers Richard

[Paul Harrop]

That is beautiful!

[Bob Roller]

 

Adam, thank you for that link!
Bob, thank you for the write up with that info, when I get started, hopefully, you will let me pick your brain on how you hold some of the parts for machining such as do you make the tumble blank in one setup on the lathe such as OD, clearance relief cuts on either side and both axles. Thank you again for sharing your information.
Cheers Richard

Thanks to both Paul and flatsguide for the kind remarks.If possible I will tell any who want to know
whatever I can about lock making as opposed to assembling a kit.With the CNC capability we have
today it probably won't be long until a kit is offered at least for a flintlock.Other than the English style
long range guns there is no noticeable need for an upper end caplock.I did furnish the Germans with
what are still considered as high end caplocks for pistols and the Schuetzen Rifles.After WW1 the Schuetzen
societies or Vereins vanished in America.I would like to see a revival but at nearly 85 I don't think I will see it .
Two hundred meters Freistand{Offhand)on the 25 ring target.Back in 1987 I made up a fancy schuetzen lock
and donated it to the NMLRA as a prize.It was later found in a flea market minus the restyled Bill Large hammer
I used.
One more thing, THANK YOU Heinz Ahlers for the pictures you posted.This WAS an inexpected surprise and even
though I have not intention of making any more locks it did show what CAN be done with common tools.
Bob Roller

[mountainman70]

What a great read. Thanks Mr Roller for your many years in service to us.
I have a NOS Roller flintlock I am installing on a build with a NOS WM LARGE  barrel.
When I was disassembling the lock to begin inlet, it was like a Spiritual experience as I have ever had.
Kinda like going out in the morning after a heavy snow, and the silence is incredible. That's how I describe it.
Course, I always been a little bit out there.
Best regards, Dave F