Author Topic: Coloring epoxy  (Read 6155 times)

rogerpjr

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Coloring epoxy
« on: December 07, 2015, 12:32:13 AM »
I have to try to match a stock color closely with an epoxy repair for a friend. I have read that artists paints in the tubes from Hobby Lobby, etc. would work but I don't want to have to buy a bunch when I may never need them again. Has anyone tried using regular solvent based plastic model paints to color the epoxy? I have tons of these from my modeling days and if I can't find one that matches I'm sure I can mix some to get a match.

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2015, 01:03:45 AM »
Leave the epoxy alone.  Stain the surrounding wood before you glue.
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Offline snapper

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2015, 01:16:07 AM »
I have mixed in saw dust with the epoxy and also use leather dye.

Fleener
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Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2015, 02:33:40 AM »


NEW WEBSITE! www.mikebrooksflintlocks.com
Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?

Boompa

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2015, 02:51:27 AM »
Wow! That's impressive Mike. :)

ddoyle

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2015, 03:03:49 AM »
Best thing to do would be to beg Mike for direction! Those results are not the outcome usually accomplished by the rest of us so he obviously figured something out.

For tinting Acrylic artists paints are cheap as dirt. a few or 500 hundred million asian kids still do things with thier hands and that keeps the cost down and the quality usable.  

Kit Ravenshear in his Craft and Practice series covers epoxy use. Worth the read.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2015, 03:06:54 AM by ddoyle »

Offline rsells

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2015, 05:44:11 AM »
I use the stains (Brown and Black) that I get from Brownell's.  It comes in their Acuraglass liquid and gel kits, but you can purchase the stains seperate.  I mix the two to get as close a match to the stained wood as possible.  I also do a trial run on a piece of scrap wood from the blank to determine if I need to stain the joint in the wood before gluing the parts in or not.  I have found that in some cases the glue will wick into the wood causing a light line in the joint if I don't stain the mating surfaces of the wood first.  In some cases it doesn't make any difference.  I think it depends upon the density of the wood.  Not sure, but I do the trial run on scrap first before working on the stock.  For years, I never had many issues unless I caused it, but four out of the last six builds I have done have had some issue with bug holes, etc.  I must have lost my rabbit's foot.
                                                                                             Roger Sells

Offline hudson

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2015, 07:34:12 AM »
I have used artist color with good luck. The color that come with Acuraglass gel kits work well also. I work with mostly walnut. The several pre-carved used have needed some help. Adding sawdust has been helpful. The one thing important is run test peace's first. It takes vary little color to tint! When mixing the mix needs to be lighter than you would think. After it sets up it looks darker, after sanding lighter. This has been my experience and still learning.

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2015, 02:55:45 PM »
Leave the epoxy alone.  Stain the surrounding wood before you glue.
A couple guns ago I had a colerain barrel that ended up having a crooked breech plug tang. Didn't notice it till it was inlet. I had to file about 1/8" off of one side leaving of course a huge gap. I found a piece of wood, cut it to size and lined up the curl of the stock and the patch. I stained the patch and the stock, applied some crazy glue gel (Gorilla brand) and hammered in my patch. I always taper the sides of my patch and my hole so I get a super tight fit as you can see from the pics above. Anyway, the tang patch was completely invisible when finished. I told the customer his gun had a large patch and asked him to call me when he found it. I haven't heard from him.
 The termite holes in the above stock weren't just filled with epoxy, the areas were cut out and filled with wood. There must be four or five patches in total. If I would have tinted epoxy and filled the holes you would have seen them because the glue has a smooth texture when finished. The way I do it you have to carefully select your patches to the grain flows properly. With my method you have minuscule to no glue lines. Glue lines can be seen because they are smooth in texture.
 Do this sort of thing any way you like.  I always enjoy the "add some saw dust" advice. I think I'll continue to do it my way. ;)
NEW WEBSITE! www.mikebrooksflintlocks.com
Say, any of you boys smithies? Or, if not smithies per se, were you otherwise trained in the metallurgic arts before straitened circumstances forced you into a life of aimless wanderin'?

Offline Keb

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #9 on: December 07, 2015, 04:06:16 PM »
I have used Hershey's chocolate, the powdered unsweetened baking kind. It worked...

Offline Marcruger

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #10 on: December 08, 2015, 04:12:46 AM »
Mike, That reply above was very modest.  I am pretty astounded by the patching process and success!  Well done sir.  Well done indeed.   Marc

Offline Stoner creek

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #11 on: December 08, 2015, 06:00:07 AM »
JB Weld (wood weld) will take a stain in a pinch. Nothing beats a good inletting job but things sometimes happen.
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Offline t.caster

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #12 on: December 09, 2015, 02:45:31 AM »
I have good luck tinting epoxy with artists oil paint from a tube. I think that"s what Brownell supplies with their kits. Burnt umber (dark brown) is the only color I use. Start with a tiny dot on the tip of a small screw driver or toothpick, mix it in and see your color, add more as needed in tiny amounts. If you get it too dark start over or add more epoxy, or it will show later on. Best to go slightly lighter than your stock stain.
It works OK for cracks or small gaps in inletting, but not large ones. In that case U should carve out a patch to fit tightly as M. Brooks stated.
Tom C.

Offline jerrywh

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #13 on: December 09, 2015, 05:44:26 AM »
 I have been hunting for the stainable glue some people mention for many years. I have never seen it. In my 60 years of gun making I haven't found anything better than the [Mike Brooks Method]  Sawdust and glue is the worst I have ever tried but maybe I just don't hold my mouth the right way. I just fixed a hundred thousand dollar plus gun that way a few months ago and in a three day national display it was not discovered.
 PS--When you make a gun from a plank never throw away the scraps. Stuff happens.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2015, 05:46:24 AM by jerrywh »
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Offline hudson

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #14 on: December 09, 2015, 06:44:50 PM »
I thought I would express my thanks to Mike for his method of patching. What a great job. I have patched with wood but with a bit of a tattletale line at times mostly hid with finish. I did use sawdust in buildup/bedding in a cheap pistol kit I was given. The breach area was pretty bad recoil would have created a problem. I normally use epoxy stained for vary small flaws mostly running with the grain.

Offline Daryl

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Re: Coloring epoxy
« Reply #15 on: December 09, 2015, 07:40:10 PM »
Years ago, I repaired a stock with epoxy and saw dust.  I stained it identically as I'd refinished the stock. I was complimented on the repair- "nice patch" that stood out like a sore thumb. In spite of the compliment from an unknowing person, it was an easily seen ugly spot, a circle of off-coloured stain. Don't use it.
Daryl

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