Waxing leather for bags

[mab7]

I have managed to acquire some vegetable tanned leather that ought to make a really good bag or two. I have seen some really nice bags that have been waxed and thought maybe I might give that a try on one.

The questions I have though, is what kind of wax and what is the best application method? And then once the wax has been applied, is it best to buff or hand rub it as a finishing method? The leather is vegetable tanned cow hide and it is 5 - 6 ounce leather. It will also be died a medium to dark brown if that matters...

[okieboy]

 My favorite wax for applying to leather goods is Goddard's Cabinet Wax. It is a mixture of beeswax and lemon oil. It is a soft wax, so it will penetrate into the leather. Use a piece of cotton cloth to apply it; I keep my applicator piece in the can so it is thoroughly loaded with wax. I usually buff out with a paper shop towel. Do a test piece, because though it is clear, waxing will cause your color to look darker.
 Would like to see the finished product, please.

[T.C.Albert]

Neutral boot wax (polish) like Kiwi applied with a dauber and then buffed with a boot brush...
Other waxes must be applied melted and hot, which will "jack" the leather...not sure if thats what you want?
tc

[mab7]

I have to dye the leather, which I am going to do once I cut it out from a pattern I am working on now. A process, I may add, that would be much quicker if I would quit 'tweaking' it! The bags I have seen that are waxed seem to have a richer, or warmer, appearance than unwaxed bags. That is actually what I am after. Contrary to the popular belief of those that know me, I do have sense enough to come in out of the rain! Waterproofing would just be a secondary benefit...

[Jerry]

A leather treatment that I found years ago at a gun show works. The name of it is "BLACKROCK". I purchase it in a 4 oz. container. Contains Carnauba Wax. Can be buffed, as some of the other waxes. Before buffing, I let it set over night before buffing.

[mab7]

Buddy dropped off the leather tonight.
Using what little knowledge I have, I would put the leather at 5 - 6 ounce. It feels to be about perfect for the bag I have in mind. Got just enough to make one bag with maybe a hair left over. Time to double and triple check my template for the cuts and bone up on dye methods!

[Eric Fleisher]

You can achieve some of that warmer, richer appearance by burnishing your leather.  After the leather has been dyed and still slightly damp burnish it with a piece of wool cloth.  Use some elbow grease and generate a little heat.  You cannot over burnish.  If you have a few scraps after you cut out the bag, burnish a piece by wetting it with water. It will show you what burnishing will do.  It will give the leather the appearance of depth and a rich shine.  Burnishing will do more for the appearance of your bag than applying wax. That being said the last thing I do to a bag is apply shoe polish (wax) and buff it with a t shirt rag.

If you need some scrap pieces to experiment on, drop me a line.  I have a lot of scrap.

[mab7]

You can achieve some of that warmer, richer appearance by burnishing your leather.  After the leather has been dyed and still slightly damp burnish it with a piece of wool cloth.  Use some elbow grease and generate a little heat.  You cannot over burnish.  If you have a few scraps after you cut out the bag, burnish a piece by wetting it with water. It will show you what burnishing will do.  It will give the leather the appearance of depth and a rich shine.  Burnishing will do more for the appearance of your bag than applying wax. That being said the last thing I do to a bag is apply shoe polish (wax) and buff it with a t shirt rag.

I actually found out about burnishing with a rag by accident not too long ago compliments of a year old hound puppy that was feeling his oats. Old cloth diapers work pretty well.

[Smoothshooter]

How would Johnson's Paste Wax work?
I think it has carnauba (?) oil in it as well.

[michaelB.]

You can achieve some of that warmer, richer appearance by burnishing your leather.  After the leather has been dyed and still slightly damp burnish it with a piece of wool cloth.  Use some elbow grease and generate a little heat.  You cannot over burnish.  If you have a few scraps after you cut out the bag, burnish a piece by wetting it with water. It will show you what burnishing will do.  It will give the leather the appearance of depth and a rich shine.  Burnishing will do more for the appearance of your bag than applying wax. That being said the last thing I do to a bag is apply shoe polish (wax) and buff it with a t shirt rag.

I actually found out about burnishing with a rag by accident not too long ago compliments of a year old hound puppy that was feeling his oats. Old cloth diapers work pretty well.
[/quotewi

This is excellent and I agree completely.  I COMPLETELY AND TOTALLY disagree with the concept of waxing leather.  It will dry out, and will crack sooner than later.  I am 70 years old and have been working leather since I was 16.  I spent lots of time being taught by old timers who knew their business.
Burnishing with cloth, or like the English servants would do for their foxhunting masters, 'bone' the leather.  Literally using a piece of antler to hard burnish out scratches and mars.  This closes the grain in the leather, seals and interestingly enough, helps to make it water resistant... note I didn't say water proof.

There were lots of good preservatives gone the wayside over the years, but there are still around that will make the leather attractive, restore or retain it's usefullness and provide some degree of water resistancy.  There is Aussie Leather Conditioner, Carnuba, that Bear Leather Dressing, and of course, the oils like Neatsfoot.

Remember, just about all wax, even pure beeswax will dry out  leather.  If you feel that you MUST use wax of some sort, melt beeswax, dilute with about twice the amount of Neatsfoot oil and apply warm.  Buff and burnish when done

[FDR]

you might want to look at the products offered  here:

https://www.pecard.com/welcome-to-the-new-website/

Fred

[scottmc]

As a new guy to this site, please be patient with me because I know or have to think that this subject has been raised many times in the past on this forum but I though the idea behind good leather treatments is to use preservatives that have "no" petroleum products but that have natural animal fats such as bear fat, for example.  I've heard good things about pure neatsfoot oil as well but I have been using pure bear fat for a couple of years now.  I guess mixed with a little bees wax would even be better.

[michaelB.]

...and bear fat is good.  I have seen it used and seen the results so if you have a good result and are happy with it, good on you!  I'm fairly new here also, but have been around since Moses' puppy was peeing on his carpet... lots of experience in this forum, nice folks too so don't hesitate to ask a question.  Like lots of old timers, I've been shooting black powder and working on my kit since 1976 but I'm still learning stuff and asking questions of these guys.

[scottmc]

Thanks for the affirmation, Mike!  I agree, this site is full of knowledgeable craftsmen and I've looked at it a long time before I decided to join and ask or post comments.  I thought I remembered reading in other literature about the natural animal fats being less harmful to the leather and cordage but then you get some other info and it just starts to confuse me.  I will stay with the bear fat since I have a decent supply of it for now.  I've been hooked on the muzzle loader thing ever since 1982 and probably more so now since I'm dabbling with making pouches and building and gun every 5 years or so.