Pinned or Screwed Trigger Guard

[JCurtiss]

I've now seen pinned and screwed trigger guards.  So which is the best securing system; is it unique to the particular gun school?

I built a Hawkin kit some 34 years ago and it had a screwed trigger guard.  However, I've recently seem some flintlock rifles with pinned trigger guards. It seems to me that a trigger guard that is screwed to the stock would be more secure than one that is pinned, but perhaps I'm wrong?

Thanks,

Jason

 

[David R. Pennington]

I am no expert but I would think pinned would be stronger. If you are reproducing a particular school screwed might be more appropriate. Some are pinned at front and screwed at the back.

[smylee grouch]

I have one that would best best be described as contemporary or not PC as I pinned and screwed the guard on. Its what I thought at the time stronger in case I would later put a sling on it. English style guard screwed to trigger plate in front and pinned through tab at wrist plus two small screws through the tail of guard into the bottom of the wrist. It is an English style gun not an american style longrifle.

[Nate McKenzie]

Rough rule of thumb: Early Pa.- pinned front, screwed rear.
                                   Later Pa.- pinned front and back.
                                   Southern Mt.- screwed front and back.
There are many exceptions.

[flehto]

All my Bucks County LR builds have a screwed rear finial and are pinned into the front lug.. The Lancasters are pinned front and back. No expert but that's what I've observed on originals......Fred

[bama]

Both are good systems and both work well. I agree that if you are trying to build to a certain school then you should follow it's example. If you are building to suit yourself then do want you want.

If you look at original guns that have had some use you can see the flaws of both systems. Pin holes get wallered (don't know if that is a real word) but most of you will know what I mean by it. Screws get stripped out, especially in walnut. I do not like to use screws anymore than I have to in a rifle because of the stripping problem. If I do use them I start with smaller screws and don't go to final size until final fit up.

This is just my prefference

[L Moler]

I wouldn't say that a Hawken is screwed to the stock.  The triggerguard on a Hawken is screwed to the elongated trigger bar.  Then the trigger bar is attached to the stock with two through bolts..

I have never seen a longrifle with such a trigger/triggerguard system.

[L Moler]

I should say, I have never seen a period longrifle with such a trigger/trigger guard system..
I have made a couple where the triggerguard is screwed to the front of the trigger bar and then the trigger bar is secured to the stock with a through bolt down from the tang and a wood screw at the rear of the trigger bar and also a wood screw through the rear tang of the trigger guard..

But, mostly, I attach them in the traditional way with a pin in the front and either a pin or a screw in the rear (according to school.)

[WadePatton]

Both are good systems and both work well. I agree that if you are trying to build to a certain school then you should follow it's example. If you are building to suit yourself then do want you want.

If you look at original guns that have had some use you can see the flaws of both systems. Pin holes get wallered (don't know if that is a real word) but most of you will know what I mean by it. Screws get stripped out, especially in walnut. I do not like to use screws anymore than I have to in a rifle because of the stripping problem. If I do use them I start with smaller screws and don't go to final size until final fit up.

This is just my prefference

Simply reviewing the subject as I pinned my first guard, and I should have been stopped.  I'll be screwing these two as they are supposed to represent TN guns.  I might even drop 3 screws through 'em.   

As to holes stripping out, I find fixing a stripped hole in wood to be one of the simplest fixes ever.  I re-drilled a LOT of holes on that first build (for relocation not stripping, but same process).  I simply drill out the buggered hole, glue in a piece of hardwood (hickory is good for this).  Then redrill/tap as needed.

[EC121]

The threads can be hardened by dripping thin CA glue in the hole after cutting the threads with the screw.  Won't make them gorilla proof but they will last longer than raw wood.  You have to do that on my RC airplanes due to the soft wood.  Should work for the pin holes also.  Just don't get it where you want to stain. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Jason:  If you screwed the trigger/guard assembly to a Hawken, it was a kit gun from Italy, Spain or Japan...definitely not an authentic Hawken rifle.

On a Tennessee Mountain rifle, if you intend to screw the guard to the wood, which is the correct way, BTW, be sure you don't drill the rod hole so deep that you end up with no wood to run that front screw into.

[Stophel]

On many types of guns, the rear of the triggerguard is pinned, but I honestly hate doing it.  I find the rear triggerguard base/finial/tang deceptively hard to inlet anyway, inletting the tenon too is a pain.

Some Berks guns, like "gun 21" are not inlet at all at the rear... I like those kind.   

[Mark Elliott]

Nate gave the same general answer as I would.   

However,  I will add that the best rule of thumb is to build new guns based on a old gun or group of guns.   That way,  you use the characteristics of that rifle or rifles.   That way,  you can't go wrong.

There is great risk (historically) in picking and choosing features.    If you aren't trying to be historically correct,  then do things however you like.   If you study and build  southern guns, you will soon note that those original builders did whatever they wanted, and there were quite a few originals even in their own time.   

[Boompa]

  If you aren't trying to be historically correct,  then do things however you like.   If you study and build  southern guns, you will soon note that those original builders did whatever they wanted, and there were quite a few originals even in their own time.   

         I have to wonder if that wasn't the case more than we realize and not only in southern guns but PA rifles and others as well.  I realize that there is a rule of thumb so to speak with the various schools of gun building but they must have occasionally deviated from the rule.

[54ball]

I realize that there is a rule of thumb so to speak with the various schools of gun building but they must have occasionally deviated from the rule.

In my opinion that's a slippery slope if you are emulating a style, school or family. A tiny detail yes, but those tiny details add up.
 As said for a contemporary or based on a true story type of gun you can can do anything you want.

 If you are building a historical based piece you never want to have a feature you have to justify with statements like they could have or they might have or it's possible. You need to stick with what they did do.