Browning a lock (compound curves) with LMF browning solution

[Chowmi]

I've seen multiple posts regarding browning barrels and flat surfaces with LMF browning solution, and understand the basics of it. 

I am browning a percussion lock and double set trigger. 

In an effort not to make two passes over the same portion, I clearly missed parts of the hammer for the lock.  Evidence is a bright shiny part surrounded by light brown.

What is not often mentioned is how to evenly distribute the browning solution onto parts with small compound curves or facets such as the hammer and triggers.  I have been using a cloth patch folded over and wetted with LMF browning solution.  However, I am very careful to only take one swipe at each surface, so as not to create the copper color resulting from multiple passes on the same surface.
This seems to present a problem on small areas on the hammer, or for that matter, many of the facets of a flintlock. 

It seems to me that maybe the best solution is to take one pass, and then wait for results.  Then, card and apply the solution in spots you may have missed.  In other words, a stepped process in order to provide an even covering.  I tried this with the percussion hammer on my lock and it seems to be working, although I am early in the process.

Is there a better application method?  Some sort of brush or applicator that is better than a folded bit of cotton backed by my finger??

Thank you,
Norm

[Nordnecker]

I use a Q tip.

[snapper]

I tried LMF on the last rifle.  It worked fine, but this one pass copper thing was odd.

I went back to wahkon bay on the rifle I just got done yesterday.  Dont have to worry about it and I think it works better.

Fleener

[Ky-Flinter]

2x on the Q-tip.

-Ron

[PPatch]

Just keep going and be sure and cover any spots you missed with the next application, LMF is very forgiving and everything will even out by about the third or forth application. When you first apply it you'll think "oh no... I've messed up..." but as you proceed you will see that everything is fine. For those small areas a Q-tip works great, I overlap each stroke slightly and find that it all evens out nicely in the end. The procedure is...

- Apply, being sure to coat everything. Give the solution time to work according to how humid your particular area is - anywhere from 3-4 hours to all day.

- Don't sweat the missed areas but do cover them on the next go-round. You may get some coppery areas, still no sweat   
because those will even out with subsequent coatings.

- It will take about five or six applications to develop a good brown. By about the third coat do be carding between. With carding you want to remove all "red" rust areas but don't get too frisky about it, just knock off the surface stuff. I use a piece rolled up rough canvas, anything similar will work, for tight areas I use a small copper brush, lightly.

Good luck and do ask questions if you feel the need.

dave

[moleeyes36]

I never used LMF brown in the past but I used it on the last couple of rifles following PPatch's method and both turned out just fine.  I also rust blued one of those rifles using his instructions and was very happy with the finished product.  Be patient and it will all come together in th end.

Mole Eyes

[Chowmi]

Thanks all for the tips.  I'm glad you said Q-tip.  I did try that, but was afraid I had it too saturated because the hammer very quickly turned all sorts of weird colors, mostly green.  I carded it and tried again with the cloth method. 

I've done the lock plate, but it's so dry here it took me all of almost two weeks to finally get an even coating.  I even let it sit for 6 days.  It might be that I sanded it too fine as well.

I'll try the Q-tip again, but make sure its not quite so soaking wet this time.

I rust blued the lock plate, boiling in distilled water. 
Here it is:

IMG_3470 by chowmif16, on Flickr

Thanks again,
Norm

[PPatch]

If it is way dry in your area then coat your pieces and hang the metal in your bathroom, then run the hot water til it fogs up in the room and leave them for an hour or so. This will give the browning solution the best head start. And, yeah, the Q-tip should not be soaking wet, damp is enough as long is it is leaving a damp mark on the metal as you use it.

You might consider making a browning box, does not have to be a complicated contraption...

dave

[FDR]

You might want to consider a damp box.  Google "rust bluing" and you will find many ideas on how to build one.  I built the "John Bivins" version many years ago. The plans were in "Rifle" magazine.  Basically a tall wooden box with a light bulb for heat and a pan of water for moisture both located in the bottom of the box.

Fred

[Chowmi]

Yup, I keep telling myself I will build a sweatbox, and then never do it!!

I did try the bathroom trick on the lock plate about 3 times.  It definitely helped, but it was still a slow process.  That's okay, it gave me time to work on filing and polishing the trigger guard and staining the stock. 

I'm slowly learning how not to rush!

[Daryl]

rubbing back and forth over the same spot is what causes the copper colour. A simple overlap by a bit does nothing, seems for me, as when even wiping an octagonal barrel, there is some overlap at times - NP's have been presented from this method.
small things - Q-tip sounds perfect. Damp, but not shaken.