suggestions

[Joe S.]

Ok,I have this buttplate inletted for the most part perfect.When I put the screws in and tighten them down I end up with gaps.It doesn't rock,looks great till the screws are tightened down.I have seen posts in the past about stuff like this but wonder what tricks you might use.Would you over inlet it then when the screws are tightened it looks good?

[tallbear]

I would hammer the gaps shut then file out the hammer marks. You'd be surprised the gaps that will close up. 

Mitch

[Joe S.]

If it was brass I would have done that,this ones iron and a little on the hard side too.

[bob in the woods]

Seems as though there is not wood in contact with the plate under the screw, allowing the plate to flex as the screw/s are tightened. Maybe smoke the plate and check for contact ?

[Joe S.]

Hmmmmm,maybe,it's a hawken buttplate so it's hollow on the heel and I know it's not totally true near the toe.It has a little raised area the whole length. I filed it true as I could.Pretty hard and a little thick to be flexing IMHO. Wouldn't think those screws could be tightened that much to flex that plate

[Ky-Flinter]

If the screw holes in the wood are angled just a little, as you tighten the screws, the plate will "follow" the screw, moving it up or over, etc. creating a gap.

-Ron

[PPatch]

I think smoking the inside of the butt plate is a good start. Smoke it, be careful not to let it touch the butt as you install the screws. Just take it in until it touches and then a half or three quarters turn more. Take it off and have a good look-see, you might find out what's up.  You said it was not totally true at the toe, that is an area to really check.

Preparing butt plates before you inlet it is a must for a good fit, you have to true the inside surfaces as you mentioned, and you have to be sure. When I have one inlet to the point it is almost done I only use a chisel to scrap the high spots shown by the blackening media. It takes time and you have to go slowly to get that no-gap result with those hard steel butt plates.

Good luck with your project.

dave

[Joe S.]

Thanks guys, will do the smoke trick and check to make sure my screws are as straight as can be.

[smylee grouch]

Do the gaps happen when the screw enters the countersink portion of the screw hole?

[Joe S.]

yes and have been looking that over.When the screw is tightened all the way up and regulated to its finished position. Thinking it's the top screw causing the problem.Thinking maybe when I drilled my hole a hair to much forward of the clearance hole and when I tighten the screw down it pulls the butt back a bit.If I have to I will glue a small dowl in the hole and redrill the hole.

[smylee grouch]

I like to drill the top hole just a tad forward so when the screw goes into the countersink it cams or wedges the plate forward and tight against the stock.

[Joe S.]

When I said forward I ment back.Tomorrow I will double check everything thing from smoking  the back to checking the hole and screws for position.When this things all clamped in position it looks good so it's gotta be something stupid I'm missing

[smylee grouch]

If your pilot hole is a hair too far to the rear, you might have to plug that hole and redrill a new pilot hole just a tad forward and as perpendicular to the top surface of the plate as you can get it.

[Mark Elliott]

I think your best bet is to anneal the butt piece, if possible, and hammer the gaps closed.   I do that with steel butt pieces just like brass butt pieces.

[jerrywh]

 Smoke, screw on hammer, cut. Smoke screw on hammer cut. Until it fits perfectly screwed on. Never give up till it fits correctly.
 PS. Don't hammer too hard on the heal or the stock might chip.

[Joe S.]

kept at it,put some color on the plate,a little tap here,there,straightened out the top screw,little more scraping  here,there,sheesh!this thing would be a lot farther along if I didn't have to do things two,three four times to get it close.

 

[Joe S.]

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[Jerry V Lape]

From the photos, neither of the screws seem to be going in perpendicular.  Also, did you inlet the plate on a flat surface or did you inlet on the edges and have a raised area of wood in the hollow beneath the plate.  If the later, the plate may not be clearing the center wood forcing the plate to shift as you torque the screw.  Smoke the entire plate real heavy and screw it down until it shifts.  Ii should clearly show you where the contact is.  

[Joe S.]

Jerry,the top screw is as straight as can be.It may look funny because it's a temporary screw with a rather large flat head not sunk down in the countersink.The other is a hair out and once it gets turned one more time to its regulated spot and filed flush it will be good.A little more time with it and it will be good to go