Ferriers rasp

[hortonstn]

Any one use a ferriers rasp for stock shaping?
Is it as good as a 49 or 59 cabinet rasp

[David R. Pennington]

Generally too coarse for me. Takes too mutch time to get the scratches out. I like drawknives and spoke shaves, gouges and chisels.

[Ky-Flinter]

A ferriers rasp is much courser than a 49.  I've used one on wood and it removes a lot of wood quickly but leaves a very rough surface and can leave tear outs.

-Ron

[Curtis]

Stan,

I use one for hogging off wood.  As mentioned, it can leave a rough surface.  I just leave enough wood to smooth it off with a #49 or a file.

Curtis

[MAC57]

Yes, I use one. Just watch your grain and a light touch when you near finish size.
 Mark

[Mike Brooks]

I prefer a #49

[WadePatton]

What everybody said.  It's big and rough and can make nasty a surface.  BUT they're cheap and locally available and can be useful/might suit your hand better than some. 

I say try one out-on hardwood scrap, or your blank before anything gets _near_ dimension.  They just shred soft woods.

A #49/50 or similar isn't quite in the same category.  Like comparing 40-grit sandpaper to 120.  I'd get the cabinet rasp if I could only have one.

[T*O*F]

It is good to have one in your file collection.   Remember, they have two sides.  I've had a couple of blanks that were so hard that regular rasps just skidded across like a file on hardened steel.  It took the coarse side of a ferrier's rasp to work the blank down.

[Mike Brooks]

I do most gross wood removal with a big chisel and mallet. Rasps are for final shaping. Unless of course you have alot of extra time on your hands....

[Boompa]

  I keep one around and use it occasionally. Use caution, it removes wood faster than any wood rasp I own.

[hortonstn]

Thanks for the comments I've been using a 50 nick because I'm afraid I'd cut to fast and mess up I think I'll stay slow and save my self a lot of aggravation after all the turtle did win

[Captchee]

  I use a  ferriers rasp a lot . They work real well for parliamentary shaping .
As was said , they take a lot of wood off quick . I have never had a sharp one tear the wood . However I also pay attention to grain  and rasp with the grain not against it .
Good Ferrier rasps should also have 2  sides . A course and a fine.
The fine side being  courser then a cabinet rasp.
  Use the finer side  for clean up  then progress to a smaller rasp , then files and scrapers .

 On softer woods like English walnut or  red or big leaf maple , I shape using  my older Ferrier rasps that have began to get on the dull side .
 In fact I have a couple which were give to me  because the were getting to dull to use  for shoeing ..
   If your building from a  precarve , I would not use one . But if your staring from a plank  and working the wood down to a general shape , then they work wonderfully IMO

[Paul E. Wog]

I agree with the #49
At a local gunsmithing school in the last century , we had to square up our first stock blank to the " professors" specs using a try square, jack plane. and a farriers rasp...I have not seen mine since.
Just my 2d worth.        Shreck ( NOT Meister )

[Willbarq]

Get one, farriers rasp that is. Useful. Pressure determine the depth of the cut, which is a big duh, of course. I bought a used one for a dollar. Best dollar spent so far on tools.

[volatpluvia]

I hate rasps on wood.  I shaped with handsaw, chisels, gouges and course file.  The very last gonne I built I finished with cabinet scrapers.  I wish I had done that with ALL my rifles, smoothbores and pistols.

[archertl]

I have not used them for rifle stocks but I do use them for carving axe handles a lot. It is definitely a tool worth owning

[Pete G.]

Instead of a rasp, try a Vixon file such as used for auto body work. They will really peel the wood off in a hurry and not leave a rough surface.

[Curtis]

Used my ferrier's rasp extensively again today - it's a fantastic tool to have in your toolkit!  As with any hand tool, you just have to read how it's interacting with the wood.

Curtia