Author Topic: Something other than lead (Read 5357 times)

Nordnecker · « **on:** July 18, 2016, 02:30:10 PM »

A friend gave me a bucket of what seems like lead but it must have another metal (antimony?) mixed with it. It is somehow darker, almost waxy looking. It is a little harder than pure lead, too. I poured some sinkers with it and they remain bright and shiny looking longer than pure lead. Maybe I shouldn't use this for round balls. Any ideas or cautions?

heinz · « **Reply #1 on:** July 18, 2016, 03:40:40 PM »

Sounds like it might be wheel weights or some other lead tin antimony alloy. I do not like using anything other than pure
Lead for a good tght fittling muzzle loading load. The alloy can be good for cartridge pistol loads if it does not cause leading. Some folks use Alloys with lighter patching in round ball loads. I do not. Not that it is dangerous, just a problem for accuracy.

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #2 on:** July 18, 2016, 05:16:26 PM »

Lead alloys do not shrink as much after casting, so the bullets are a little bigger, and often cause loading problems. They don't obturate like pure lead either, and can cause a lack of optimum accuracy. Many cap and ball revolvers have had their loading levers damaged trying to load alloyed lead balls.

Hungry Horse

HAWKEN · « **Reply #3 on:** July 18, 2016, 07:34:07 PM »

Lead alloys that contain a high percentage of antimony do not oxidize as quickly as pure lead and remain shiny for a long time after being cast. They are also much harder than pure lead. They have a tendency to shrink as they cool. They can still be used in a rifle or smooth bore, if properly patched for a tight fit. They tend not to deform when shot thru a deer or hog and often pass completely thru. If you load them in a cap and ball revolver, I would remove the cylinder and load them with an appropriate loader, to avoid damage to the gun. Keep yer powder dry........robin

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #4 on:** July 18, 2016, 08:03:19 PM »

Hawken, I think if you cast a pure lead ball, and then cast a ball from lead alloyed with tin, or antimony, you will find the alloy in the lead makes it shrink less, so the ball is measurably bigger.

Hungry Horse

retired fella · « **Reply #5 on:** July 18, 2016, 08:16:59 PM »

Question here. Is there a way to flux or flush the antimony/tin out of the lead?

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #6 on:** July 18, 2016, 08:27:02 PM »

Quote from: retired fella on July 18, 2016, 08:16:59 PM

Question here. Is there a way to flux or flush the antimony/tin out of the lead?

NO -- once lead is "alloyed" it is not possable to remove the different metals. Some people say you can but that process is not available to the general public without very specalized equipment

.

retired fella · « **Reply #7 on:** July 18, 2016, 08:52:16 PM »

Thank you P.W. I am from the old school, if you can't scratch it with your fingernail it is not pure.

Nordnecker · « **Reply #8 on:** July 18, 2016, 10:15:49 PM »

This stuff is thin sheets aproximatley 2 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches. I didn't realize it wasn't pure and threw a bunch of it in a pot that I had pure lead in. It didn't cast very well. It clogged up the sprue holes in the sinker mold no matter how hot I got the mold blocks. Trying to figure out why it wouldn't work, I figured it might not be pure lead. I had to blame it on something, right? So now I've got a 40 lb block of contaminated lead/ alloy, and a half a 5 gal bucket of these sheets.
I won't use this for round balls. I thought I had read (here, somewhere) about an alloy or contaminate getting into your lead or melting pot and never coming out entirely, causing problems.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #9 on:** July 18, 2016, 10:29:09 PM »

TODAY I went to the dentist for a check up and the technician took a bunch of
X rays after putting a heavy apron over me.I asked her if it was lead and she said yes
and I asked if they had any X ray lead and ended up with a box and a bag full of very thin
scraps of lead. When I got home I melted some of them and cast ONE long 40 caliber
bullet. It weighed in at 420 grains so I am assuming pure lead. I have another appointment next Monday
and she said there will be more if I want them. I said I'd take all I can get.With the weight being on spec
with a single cast I think it may be a "lead"mine for me.

Bob Roller

bob in the woods · « **Reply #10 on:** July 18, 2016, 11:11:30 PM »

I have a bunch off "not pure" lead and use it to cast balls for the smoothbore matches.
Depending on the material e.g. I sometimes use wheel weight lead for hunting loads in my smoothbore

hanshi · « **Reply #11 on:** July 18, 2016, 11:46:46 PM »

I prefer WW for casting ball to be shot in the smoothbore. My WW metal is from about 40 years ago and is quality alloy unlike most of the WW today.

oldtravler61 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 19, 2016, 03:57:08 AM »

Question for the ones who know. Was given about 60# of diver weights. No coating on them. Anyone ever tried them? Thanks for any replies.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #13 on:** July 19, 2016, 03:58:28 AM »

Avoid anything with ZINC. It'll contaminate your lead and the pot you have used to melt it.

Good soft lead is often difficult to find, so many of us from time to time, have experimented with questionable alloys, including dental lead and wheel weights. I agree that wheel weights can make balls suitable for smoothbores ONLY! It isn't even very good for cartridge bullets.
Our dental lead here makes into hard balls, or at least, harder than pure lead does.
Recently, I acquired some lead sheeting that came from a renovated x-ray department. It is dead soft...the best lead I've ever used. I managed to get nearly 500 pounds of it, so now, for the first time in my life, I can make lead:tin alloys that my BPCR's love, as well as have dead soft lead for my longrifles and pistols.

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #14 on:** July 19, 2016, 11:19:43 PM »

Quote from: oldtravler61 on July 19, 2016, 03:57:08 AM

Question for the ones who know. Was given about 60# of diver weights. No coating on them. Anyone ever tried them? Thanks for any replies.

I was told that the OLDER diver weights are pure lead - not too sure of the newer stuff. Don't ask me how old is old and how new is new -- I don't know the time frame. If you have some swaged lead balls take one and compare it to the diver weight -- scratch it with your thumb nail?

oldtravler61 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 20, 2016, 04:54:52 AM »

Thanks P.W. Much appreciated. Will check that out.

Kermit · « **Reply #16 on:** July 20, 2016, 06:17:13 AM »

As dental offices digitize, bitewing xray lead disappears. Scrounging dead soft lead has become so difficult that I just buy my lead. If you have a source, hang on to it.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #17 on:** July 20, 2016, 01:28:32 PM »

Quote from: Kermit on July 20, 2016, 06:17:13 AM

As dental offices digitize, bitewing xray lead disappears. Scrounging dead soft lead has become so difficult that I just buy my lead. If you have a source, hang on to it.

The long 40 caliber bullet I cast with the Xray lead was cast in a cold mould and was on spec for weight
and measured .408 so I'll make a few more and try them in a 40-85 I made tears ago.
I still have probably 300 pounds of dead soft lead that was given to me years ago.

Bob Roller

Daryl · « **Reply #18 on:** July 20, 2016, 07:49:51 PM »

Bob- the dental lead wrap feels soft due to it's thin design- easy to remove. My late friend Brad cast some up and indeed- they are an alloy, not even close to pure lead. They will probably make good bullets for your rifle.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #19 on:** July 20, 2016, 08:21:36 PM »

Quote from: Daryl on July 20, 2016, 07:49:51 PM

Bob- the dental lead wrap feels soft due to it's thin design- easy to remove. My late friend Brad cast some up and indeed- they are an alloy, not even close to pure lead. They will probably make good bullets for your rifle.

Daryl,
Many thanks for the info on that paper thin "lead". I will take all they can give me
and stash it.

Bob Roller

News:

Author Topic: Something other than lead (Read 5357 times)

HAWKEN