Kibler finished

[draton2681]

I finally got around to finishing my Kibler .36 Factory second. Having ordered a kit in January and not knowing when delivery would begin I jumped on the chance to buy a damaged one. The damage was a tiny nick at the buttplate cut. Jim filled it and  you can't even tell it's there ( maybe an 1/8" nick). I started out quick and in just a few hours everything but the ramrod thimbles were fitted. I got pulled away and three months later it made it's first appearance at the range. What an impression it made. First shot was centered two inches low. I slowly filed the front sight and had a solid line of 10 shots up to the 1" 10x. I mean no windage variation and no paper between shots. Just a straight line of holes. I have to finish the ramrod and polish the lock still. I left the metal bright because I love the look but I can see already it's not going to be easy to maintain. Even with lots of oil the Mississippi humidity and fingerprints are going to play $#*! on the bare metal. For those of you still debating, You won't find a finer rifle or an easier build anywhere for any price! I am a newbie except for another company parts kit that I butchered in the inletting process. If I can do this fine of a job, anyone can do it. Thanks again Jim for what you do for the shooting community. I haven't figured out how nor had the time to post pictures. Thanks to all who give input on the site. God Bless all.

[mikeyr]

congrats !!!

I got my notice this morning that my kit is ready to ship, pulled out that credit card to pay the balance faster than my wife at a shoe sale ever could.  I want to leave mine in-the-white also I think, luckily in S. Calif. I wont have the same issues you have but I think it still will be a lot of work.

[Kermit]

Not finished until there are photos. 

[Molly]

Yes, Photos please!

[SR James]

Mikeyr, when did you order your kit?  I ordered mine in early June and was told late Sept for delivery, so hopefully won't be much longer.

[draton2681]

I'll try to figure out photo posting this weekend.

[Doc]

I have just started my first build ever with this kit.  How polished do you need the hardware?  Does the browning process remove the 220 grit scuff marks? 

Sorry, I know it is remedial, but you have encouraged me on the kit.  Have had it a month and very slowly starting.

Doc

[mikeyr]

Mikeyr, when did you order your kit?  I ordered mine in early June and was told late Sept for delivery, so hopefully won't be much longer.

May 16 (2:52PM Pacific time if you really want exact time    ) or at least that is when I got the confirmation e-mail of the order.  I have not received any confirmation of shipping since I paid but I assume it is on its way.

[moleeyes36]

I have just started my first build ever with this kit.  How polished do you need the hardware?  Does the browning process remove the 220 grit scuff marks? 

Sorry, I know it is remedial, but you have encouraged me on the kit.  Have had it a month and very slowly starting.

Doc

Doc,

How you finish the metal is a personal choice, but perhaps you might want to consider something like this https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/finishing-supplies/products/patina-solution.  It's easier than browning and would probably be considered more traditional for this style rifle.  IMHO, it's worth considering.

Mole Eyes

[draton2681]

I like the patina look. How is it applied and how well does it hold up against rust? I don't know if the browning process takes out the sanding marks or not. I still have a lot of scratches in mine.

[moleeyes36]

I like the patina look. How is it applied and how well does it hold up against rust? I don't know if the browning process takes out the sanding marks or not. I still have a lot of scratches in mine.

draton2681,

I bought some for a project I'm working on and Jim Kibler sent me this info on using it:

"I like to just pour a small amount in a dish, dip a small piece of scotchbrite pad in the solution and then gently go over the surface with the soaked scotchbrite.  Don't go over the same area too much or it can plate out in a layer of copper.  Just play with it.  It's really pretty easy to use.  For smaller parts, you can just  submerge the part.  After it darkens things up, just rinse and then apply a layer of light oil.  I like to rub back slightly with fine steel wool or a piece of denim.  Hope this helps.

Jim"

You'll have to email Jim (jim@kiblerslongrifles.com) and ask him about rust protection.  However, I've got guns finished in the white that I keep lightly oiled and have no problem with rust even in Florida.  They just slowly develop a natural patina. 

As for covering deep scratches from 220 grit sand paper with browning solution, I have not tried that.  Possibly a cold rust product like Laurel Mountain Forge would do it if you didn't card it heavily and went for a lightly pitted finish.  I take all my metal work down to a 400 grit finish if I'm going to rust brown or rust blue and if I'm leaving it in the white, I polish it.  Just the way I do it; others do it differently I'm sure.

Mole Eyes

[mikeyr]

question on leaving them in the white... I assume that as you shoot there is some powder residue that will get between the barrel and the stock on the sides.  And I gather that unlike my T/C Hawken, you are not supposed to remove the barrel each time you shoot to clean it, so how do you prevent rust from forming on the barrel in the stock, the part hidden by the stock itself.  Or is that not a worry ?

 I would prefer to leave mine in the in the white or bright (I have read both terms) and can keep the visible parts rust free with no problem but what about the parts you can't see ? I would think browning (which i don't like the looks of) would help there.

 I will look into the Kibler patina solution also, I like that look and if it helps with rust...that is the solution for me.

[Jim Kibler]

SR James,

Your stock is coming off the table today, so it shouldn't be too long for the kit to make it to you!  You will be getting an email from me today with some more info.

Thanks,
Katherine

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I've never had a longrifle that I did not remove the barrel from the stock each time for cleaning.  So this is going to be a new experience for me.  It is not the loosening of the pins that is a concern, in removing the barrel from Jim's rifle stock - it is that long delicate tang.  One bump on that and it will never fit the stock correctly again.  I'm not sure how to handle this situation.  I don't want water in the barrel channel, like when it rains, or when you're sloppy during cleaning.  How do you other folks manage this?

[Mike Brooks]

I've never had a longrifle that I did not remove the barrel from the stock each time for cleaning.  So this is going to be a new experience for me.  It is not the loosening of the pins that is a concern, in removing the barrel from Jim's rifle stock - it is that long delicate tang.  One bump on that and it will never fit the stock correctly again.  I'm not sure how to handle this situation.  I don't want water in the barrel channel, like when it rains, or when you're sloppy during cleaning.  How do you other folks manage this?

I have never had a barrel out of a stock to clean it and have had zero problems with water in the channel. I have at times tied a rag to the lock mortise to stop any goo coming out of the vent. The only reason I have had a barrel out is to change a vent liner, that's it.

[Boompa]

Taylor,
   It may be overkill but I coat the barrel channel with Brownell's Acraglas. I leave it clear so as not to hide the inletting as that is not the purpose of it. When it sets up it looks like gloss varnish.  Some will criticize my solution but I can't think of anything else that will seal the barrel channel as well.

[WKevinD]

I coat the inside of the barrel channel with Johnson's Paste Wax at final assembly. I have never removed a barrel for cleaning but when I have (change sights, vent liner etc.) I have never found a problem.

[SR James]

Katherine:  Got the invoices, payments sent.  Thank you!

[Molly]

I'll echo Mr. Brooks on taking the barrel out for cleaning.  Never any water problems.  Wrap a cotton cloth around the muzzle secured with a rubber band and/or just use a small funnel to get water down.  I actually use a plastic squeeze bottle with a nozzle (aka mustard dispenser).  A tooth pick fills the touch hole.  Normally I'll use a bore squeegee in the muzzle to plug it up and lay it in the rack on its side, touch hole up and let it soak.  I must confess when I started shooting I woke up at night in a cold sweat over cleaning and the concern about the water.  If one is careful enough to shoot BP I promise then one has sufficient skills to clean one.   But having seen some of your work that concern really surprises me.

[bob in the woods]

I never remove the barrel as a routine part of my cleaning, and my NE fowling gun gets a lot of use. The barrel channel is coated in shellac, and then both it and the barrel get a coat of renaisance wax .   I remove the barrels on my rifles/guns once a year to make sure all is right, and re-wax etc and so far haven;t had any problems.
I probably won't bother any more.

[axelp]

I probably remove the barrel from the stock once a year sometimes less. I will do so after a particularly wet winter outing. I coat the barrel channel liberally with paste wax or even my home made patch lube (bear oil and beeswax mixture). It seems to protect things well enough but sometimes I get a little surface rust under there that wipes off easily. I don't feel that I need to dismount the barrel for every cleaning.

K

[mikeyr]

GREAT replies, THANK YOU !

 Got my kit today, I think I will start a build thread with lots of pictures to keep it separate.  Wow that stock is thin ! and the lock looks great as-is, I like the color and the look I might even leave it alone.  If if I go for in the white, of course I will have to polish the lock up, if I go with the Kibler Patina solution for the barrel, then the lock might be close enough.  

 I am building this to shoot, yes I want it to look awesome but like my T/C Hawken, it won't look new for long (although lets be fair, my T/C looks pretty good considering I purchased in the late 1970s)

 I am more worried about rust prevention on the parts you can't see once its assembled.

is it appropriate for me to create a separate thread with pics ? or continue a existing thread ?

[Sequatchie Rifle]

I've been shooting my Chamber's York County flintlock for almost ten years. I shoot it weekly, hunt with it and take it to rendezvous all the time where it is exposed to rain, snow and the high humidity of East Tennessee and northern Alabama. I clean it after shooting it with water and GI issue M16 cleaning patches, then oil it down with "Break Free" (CLP). Because of this thread, a few day ago, for the first time ever, I took the barrel out of the stock to see if there were any rust issues. It looked just like it did the day it was assembled! The barrel channel was still well coated with mink oil.

[draton2681]

Still no photos yet. I polished the lock and tested  mustard, casey's blue and rust remover and naval jelly. Naval jelly seemed to give a good even finish. not really a patina but dulled the shine a little. I ended up treating the whole gun. I love this rifle! I'll try again this weekend to get pics. I stripped a no.1 mk3 enfield using blue and rust remover in 1980. I never done anything else to the gun except oil it because I liked the dull grey finish. Over the years I have rarely even oiled the gun and have hunted with it many times. Not a spot of rust even today. I hope the muzzleloader holds up the same.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I am with the leave the barrel in the stock crowd. I wax them all well with Renaissance wax before installing them and I put a heavy coat in the barrel channel as well. I have one gun that I finished all the steel parts to a very bright mirror finish. I did wax it but it is about 5 or six years old now and has not shown the first sign of rust. The finer the polish the less susceptibility to rust is what it looks like to me. I like Jim Kibler's patina. it is my favorite look for the metal.