Marking the beads on ends of ramrod pipes.

[Jerry V Lape]

In the past I have freehanded marking the pipes while preparing to file the decorative rings onto the ends.  The end results have never been quite as uniform, especially between all the pipes in the set, as I would like.  Anyone have a system or marking device they use for this which helps?

[smart dog]

Hi Jerry,
I simply use dividers to mark the border lines then use a small triangular file to cut the border lines.  In truth Jerry, the border lines end up a little uneven and look handmade, and that is so much better than machine perfection.  In my opinion, machine perfection is boring, unimaginative, and without life.

dave

[Jerry V Lape]

Dave,
I have been using dividers and the small triangular files too.  I was just trying to stir up a discussion with other methods than mine.  The builder I am following on this build wasn't too perfect on his pipes so what I am doing is going to be pretty close to correct.  Thanks for the confirmation of my method.

Jerry

[flehto]

Although most of the time "perfection" isn't attained, I do try for it.

First a short line is made for each groove by using a small square measuring from the pipe ends. Then the pipe is pressed on a mandrel  which is the chucked in a drill press. A surface gauge w/ a scriber is lined up w/ each mark and the mandrel is then rotated by hand w/ the scriber point making a groove a few .001s deep.

It's then easy to follow each groove w/ a triangular file and then round over  the "rings"  between the lines.  This and all the other filing is done w/ the pipe on a  mandrel clamped in a vise. ....Fred

[smart dog]

Hi Fred,
You bring up a good topic.  I find the key problem for making borders and designs on thimbles is not actually marking and cutting them but holding the thimble in such a way to allow those tasks.  I use a simple mandrel that is a wooden dowel with a split end. I gently insert a little brass wedge into the split to spread the dowel and lock the thimble in place.  I like the wood dowel better than a metal rod because the rough wood holds the thimble more secure with less pressure on the thimble.  I am always worried about splitting open the solder joint with too much pressure. By pushing the wedge in with more or less pressure, I can lock the thimble in position or allow it to turn on the dowel with some resistance, which helps when filing a border.

dave

[flehto]

The  piece of RR w/ a slot is a good idea....will use it on future RR pipe builds. For the actual filing of the rings and flats I use a rod of 2 pcs , both have one end at 45 degrees and a center screw expands the 2 pcs and holds the pipe tightly. This clamping rod  has been discussed on this forum in detail and I just copied it.

Have never had the soft soldered tabs split open....but some of the entry pipes have a high temp soldered joint if further soldering takes place.....Fred

 

[Jay Close]

I have often marked the end beads with a bit of a tape wrap. Then used the edge of a good quality, six inch, half-round or half-round ring file to cut the initial line. It is amazing how the file will really "feel" the edge of the tape and follow it accurately without much trauma. Cheers!

[conquerordie]

Have have a piece of steel that is maybe 3x3 and 1/8 inch thick. Down the center I cut a channel with a saw blade half thickness, then opened slightly with a file. I have a small screwdriver that I modified to act as a punch to for the groove. Anneal my piece of brass and pound the brass in. It results in a nice bead. Of you want it right at the end of the pipe, just file off any material you don't want. The only problem with the method is it's kinda wasteful. As I have a hard time figuring out exactly how much brass I need. I found this in one of Kit Ravenshears Craftsmanship manuals. Works well with very little filing needed.
Greg

[davebozell]

Check out Curtis' post, just down the page.  He shows a simple method for making the pipes.