Author Topic: Ramrod Thimble Inletting  (Read 13200 times)

Offline P.W.Berkuta

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Re: Ramrod Thimble Inletting
« Reply #25 on: April 15, 2009, 05:23:55 PM »
When I first started to build rifles I did the thimbles in the square and drilled the thimbles in place with a drill press, but at times the through holes would be off just a bit. I then found that as I shaped the forarm I found that I had some gaps between wood and thimble. I now find it best to shape the forarm then inlet the thimbles then drill with an "eggbeater" drill from both sides of the forarm. This would give me the best job all around ;).
"The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it." - Chinese proverb

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Ramrod Thimble Inletting
« Reply #26 on: April 15, 2009, 07:20:04 PM »
I had to go to my picture files to decide which method I use, and it appears that I do it both ways.  On a precarved stock with an already shaped forend, you have no choice.  Just inlet the pipes and pin them.  Then remove them, and finish shaping the forend.
With a stock in "the square", I always shape up the lower forend to minimize the inletting of the rear pipe's skirt.  Once the pipe is down all the way, and the skirt parallel to the bore ( a little uphill, actually, so the forend has a small taper), I pin it, and finish shaping the wood down to the metal.  I usually solder a little piece of brass to the inside of the rear end of the skirt and inlet this beneath the skirt's inlet to hold the tail in place.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline Tim Crosby

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Re: Ramrod Thimble Inletting
« Reply #27 on: April 15, 2009, 08:18:47 PM »
  I usually solder a little piece of brass to the inside of the rear end of the skirt and inlet this beneath the skirt's inlet to hold the tail in place.

  Great idea! Do you put a pin through it also?

Tim C.

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Ramrod Thimble Inletting
« Reply #28 on: April 15, 2009, 09:59:44 PM »
I pin the pipe with 1/16" steel welding rod through the rearmost back corner of the pipe's lug, when using one pin.  With two, I pin the other end of the lug too.  The lip on the skirt just keeps the skirt from wanting to come away from the wood.  I use 1/32" sheet, and make it about 3/32" wide and extends about the same down past the end of the skirt.  Just enough to bear against the inside of the skirt inlet.  If my inletting was better, I likely wouldn't need it.  In addition, I try to put some tension on the whole pipe when I inlet it, so that the pin is under strain.  That keeps the pipe from rocking in it's shallow grave.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.