Author Topic: Full size rifle drawings  (Read 5306 times)

saltland

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Full size rifle drawings
« on: January 21, 2017, 02:38:58 AM »
To further my research for 1st build I was looking for original size rifle drawings as reference.I found some on Muzzleloaders supply website.Any others you guys use?Mainly interested in rifles built in PA.
Thanks again
 Scott

Offline diamante

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2017, 02:55:27 AM »

Offline mtlonghunter

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2017, 02:59:44 AM »
Whenever Im building a new rIfle without a pattern I take the book to a copy shop and have the image blown up until the trigger pull length is what I want and  go from there.

saltland

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2017, 03:43:17 AM »
diamante...thanks has exactly what I was looking for.
Scott

Offline Nate McKenzie

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2017, 07:44:48 AM »
http://knobmountainmuzzleloading.com/partspage2.html
Go to Parts and Supplies page 2 at bottom.

Offline SingleMalt

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2017, 02:26:08 PM »
Track of the Wolf has several.
Never drink whisky that isn't old enough to vote.

"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men."- Plato

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Offline RichG

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2017, 09:26:22 PM »
I'll second the Neahkahnie plans. find a large format copier and you can keep the original and use the copies to draw any changes etc. 

Offline Joe S.

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2017, 10:19:12 PM »
while not an expert I would seek out known plans based on original rifles.I bought a couple when starting my first build and they are based on contemporary rifles and have found a few mistakes.They are still good reference material however.

saltland

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2017, 07:51:54 PM »
 How are TOW plans as far as reliability?
Scott

Offline Bill Raby

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2017, 07:58:20 PM »
How are TOW plans as far as reliability?
Scott

Track of the Wolf plans are excellent as far as all the technical stuff goes. Pretty sure that they are based on originals.

saltland

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #10 on: February 01, 2017, 08:06:56 PM »
Thank you Bill!

Thawk

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #11 on: February 01, 2017, 10:02:04 PM »
I have used Eric's plans and I loved them.  I would recommend them to anyone.

Offline Flint62Smoothie

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #12 on: February 02, 2017, 04:44:10 PM »
How are TOW plans as far as reliability?
Scott

Track of the Wolf plans are excellent as far as all the technical stuff goes. Pretty sure that they are based on originals.
Just WATCH them before buying (seek feedback) or confirm it after buying. Their 1st issue of their Tulle fusil de chasse had 2 barrels pins to the ramrod thimbles ... and having occurred many years ago (before I came here or knew of Alex E) and being my 1st build, well uhhhh that's how I made it. I subsequently filled the holes and re-drilled properly.

I just recently saw their updated/revised FdC plans and am very impressed at the details and info provided - at least for this firelock.
All of my muzzleloaders will shoot into one ragged hole ALL DAY LONG ... it's just the 2nd or 3rd & other shots that tend to open up my groups ... !

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #13 on: February 02, 2017, 05:16:22 PM »
I built my first gun, a plank build, with Track's Beck pattern. I made a pattern and transferred  it to the stock blank with the lock panels located in my pattern. I placed the trigger where it would hit the sear of my lock just like the plan showed. I then found out the lock in the plan and and my Chambers siler had about an inch difference in where the sear contacted the trigger. If I had already cut off my buttstock and installed the buttplate I would have had a rifle with a little over 12" of pull, I barely made my 13  1/2" length of pull with the wood I had left

Being a newbie and short on knowledge I assumed if I followed the plan to the letter I would make a nice gun. I  still used the appropriate plans on my next two builds but as a loose reference, not to follow to the letter.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2017, 05:17:09 PM by Eric Krewson »

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Full size rifle drawings
« Reply #14 on: February 02, 2017, 06:42:11 PM »
Best is to draw your own plan and superimpose details from the purchased plan.  Your parts determine so much of the build.  I believe Mark Elliot and others have already written up how to lay out a stock but here's one way to work that is based on your parts and a bought plan.

Keep in mind:

Barrel diameter all along the profile will vary build to build.
Breech plug length will vary barrel to barrel
Distance from pan to sear will vary lock to lock
Trigger guards will vary in length of the bow
Buttplates vary in pitch and diameter.

Step 1. Trace the barrel.  Get a long piece of brown shipping paper and lay your barrel on it.  On the barrel make a mark that shows where the bore meets the breechplug. Trace the barrel to the paper and check dimensions of your tracing.  Mark the centerline of the bore.  Locate your touchhole accounting for if you are using a liner.  Touch hole centered more or less on side flat, and enough room to clear the breechplug.

Step 2.  Set the web or wood thickness between the barrel and the ramrod hole. If you have a swamped barrel draw a straight line between the bottom flat at the muzzle and the bottom flat at the breech.  Now allow 1/8" to 3/16" for the web or wood under the barrel and above the ramrod channel.  Cross hatch it or highlight it.

Step 3.  Draw the ramrod.  Cross hatch different design or highlight another color.

Step 4.   Fit and trace the lock. Note where the sear bar is on your lock and mark that spot on the outside of the lockplate.  Disassemble your lock and place the lockplate on your drawing, centering the pan on the touchhole fore and aft and the top of the pan close to the centerline of the barrel.  Level the lock so the nose is centered in the web.  You have some wiggle room here that can be very important in getting the lock set up so the nose is in the web and the lock tail centered more or less on the wrist.  At this point without a bought plan you can draw an arc where the sear bar is, and an arc where the lock tail will end up. 

Step 5. Locate the trigger. Lay your trigger plate on the plan and set it up so you have the leverage you want if a single trigger and the right setup if a set trigger.  Draw trigger on plan.

Step 6.  Locate butt plate. Know what pull and drop YOU want, not what the bought plan gives. Take your pull measurement and use this to measure back from trigger and lay out an arc that will locate the butt plate.  Put your sights on the barrel and draw a line of sight that extends backwards to the butt plate area. Now set up your drop and you've located your buttplate.

Now you have your architecture set. Take your bought plan and superimpose the details. Slope of wrist, start of comb, shape of comb, shape and style of lock moldings, cheek piece, etc. 
Andover, Vermont