Glue to set a splinter I raised.

[Treebeard]

While inletting the tang I raised a significant splinter. What would be a good glue to set it back in place? I suspect this will not be my last.

[oldtravler61]

  Treebeard I use Titebond 3. Not a pro builder but I like it much better than the super glues. It takes stain very well. Just a thought but the expert's might suggest something better.   Oldtravler

[Scota4570]

I'm a CA guy.  I keep medium thickness and accelerator handy.  When a boo-boo happens I put a drop of glue, push it back in place and spritz.  Count to five and it is done.  I can not find such repairs on my own work, it disappears. 

[Tim Crosby]

 The CA works fine, if you are worried about the Glue running about, before you glue take a Q-tip with a bit of paste wax, Johnsons works well, and rub it on both sides of the crack, Splinter, whatever you have, Not on the Crack. Apply the glue, you can buy very fine nozzles (Stew-Mac Guitar.Com, I think it is) that will fit the glue container and can be crimped even sampler. I used then followed by Medium, the thin Wicks the Medium in well. Clamp it, or push it together, spray some Accelerator on another Q-tip and wipe it on the crack. Then wipe the spot with a Paper towel, the wax can be polished of after that, sanded and the color/finish should take.   

  Tim C. 

[Joe S]

Stain first, then glue.

[Frank]

Stain first, then glue.

Yep.

[Hungry Horse]

Tight bond hide glue is what I use. It glues good, cleans up with water when wet, and takes stain.

  Hungry Horse

[thecapgunkid]

OMG  What's CA?

[Flint62Smoothie]

OMG  What's CA?

CA = cyanoacrylate, the chemical name for super glues.

[Daryl]

CA is best purchased from a hobby store - airplanes, trucks, cars, etc.   It comes in a number of different thicknesses.  Extra or super thin, thin, medium or thick.  The Medium and thick are usually also called "Gap Thickening".  They also sell "CA Kicker" which is a thin chemical used to chemically 'set' the glue - almost instantly.

Emergency wards & OR's have a form of CA used for closing some wounds.

CA was invented for closing wounds during the Korean War, I've read.

If you use CA in your shop for closing an accidental 'exacto' knife wound, be aware that the kicker will make your eyes squirt water right across the  bench. It stings a bit.

[Darkhorse]

I keep some Elmer's wood glue on my bench at all times and it works great for me. I had a stock split from the center of the forend and it angled down about 8 inches before breaking out. I immediately applied some Elmer's, then pinned the stock back together and held it together with a small clamp. When the rifle was finished the repair was almost invisible and 12 years later it's still holding strong.

[Scota4570]

Regarding closing a cut with CA glue.  First, expect a scar.  The margins will be killed.  If the skin is open and grinning at you go get real stitches. It is fine for dry skin splits and paper cut level type of injuries.

Second, under no circumstances use the accelerator on your skin.  It will cause the CA to get super hot.  That will burn off and skin you hope to stick together.  BTW my accelerator is pleasant smelling.  I got it from Hobby King. 

[flehto]

Having never used "CA Kicker"  am  puzzled as to why it's used....seeing CA has a fast hardening time w/o it. Stain and apply CA works for me.....Fred

[thecapgunkid]

Flint62smoothie...CA = cyanoacrylate, the chemical name for super glues.

Thanks Flint.  That's what I thought.  I first saw this product used in riflery in a Jim Turpin Video.  Having been clumsy in my builds, I have used it in several spots.  Here's what I learned for what it's worth.

Try not to get a lot of ooze excess out of it.  It has to be sanded carefully as it will impede staining.

In some spots it's bond will be broken by either heat or a sharp rap.  While good on a splinter as cited here, it is not all that good for a larger piece.  It won't hold a two piece wooden patchbox lid, for example.  That's for clamped wood glue.  I dunno whether or not I am skilled enough to trust it on metal to metal, such as a two piece front sight where solder is the better alternative

The best I have done with it was at a bone wrist  inlay to wood patch over a gap.  I put some in the gap before sanding the bone, then made sure plenty of dust made it into the small gap atop the crazy glue.  Final sanding and whiskering made a pleasingly  tight fit.

It does not do well out of its envelope...leather for example...and seems to be best on small pieces of fill. or chips

The comments above are all accurate if it is not handled correctly and you don't want to get it on anything other than the targeted piece.

It will not inhibit stain the way excessive, hard to see wood glue will,  but will still be visible if sanding and whiskering is not thorough.

It doesn't matter how well your patch is done...because you made the rifle you will always know where it is.

I wish I'd read this thread before I started assembling kits.

Don't shoot yore eye out, kid

The Capgun Kid

[P.W.Berkuta]

I'm not a big fan of CA glues and never had it perform on wood as well as Titebond or other wood glues. Where I do find it performs very well is gluing plexieglass and other plastics together -- non pourous materials do best for me -- fingers also .