Author Topic: checkering tools  (Read 14524 times)

Offline smart dog

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #25 on: April 12, 2017, 02:02:42 PM »
Hi Tim,
I made my cutters by bending some 5/16" steel rod and then grinding the sides down to form a blade.  Then I simply used a checkering file to cut the teeth.  It just takes a few swipes of the file and the teeth can cut in both directions.   



I heated the cutters and dipped them in Kasenite to harden them.  To make the spacing cutter, I left the blade wide and cut out the middle with a hack saw.  That created a 1/16" spacing and then I cut the teeth with the checkering file and hardened the cutters.  Finally, I stuck the shafts into wooden handles.  It took me longer to turn and finish the handles than it did to make the cutters.

dave
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ron w

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #26 on: April 12, 2017, 04:56:25 PM »
I read a few posts from guys that mention cutting flat tops with a single line cutter. of course it can be done, but it requires straight-edging each line and marking the spacing somehow.,...a very slow and laborious way to do it. Dembro and probably Sure-line make skip line cutters with a safe side( teeth, just a solid v) and a toothed side on the cutter, allowing you to follow an established line by running the safe side in the already cut line. these cutter are made in different spacings and in left and right safe sides for cutting on either side of an established line in either direction.  you use this cutter to establish your layed out checkering and then use a single cutter to deepen the panel. having one of these safe side cutters really quickens a skip line checkering job, by eliminating the need to index each line and straight-edge the initial cut on each line.

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #27 on: April 12, 2017, 06:59:07 PM »
I agree with Jerry's approach. For English flat topped chequering, I use DemBart's 60 degree cutters.  You need at least one single line cutter, two double line each with one safe side (a left, and a right), a 60 degree parting tool (veiner) and I would recommend no finer than 20 to the inch...18 lpi is a good compromise.  Normally your finish is applied first, and the chequering follows.  Then a couple applications of thin oil finishes the chequering.  On maple, stain first, cut the chequering, and then carefully stain the new cuts.  Use a stiff toothbrush to remove as much oil from the chequering - alos burnishes it and makes it polished and clean.  Here's some examples I've done over the years...







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Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #28 on: April 12, 2017, 07:08:47 PM »
You will note that the proportions of the chequering on my examples is 1 1/2:1.  this gives the diamonds a rather square look.  But it was not always done that way.  Below is the wrist of the Joseph Lang rifle I just bought, and you can see that the diamonds are longer - perhaps 2:1.  Also note the wear on the chequering adjacent the trigger guard's grip rail.



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Offline jerrywh

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #29 on: April 12, 2017, 08:53:03 PM »
 That Joseph Lang gun is a beauty Taylor.   I just checked the mileage from my house to Prince George. It is  1042 miles.
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Offline Daryl

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #30 on: April 13, 2017, 02:58:07 AM »
Come visit anytime, Jerry!
Daryl

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Offline jerrywh

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #31 on: April 13, 2017, 03:54:16 AM »
 Taylor's checkering is unreal. Never have seen any better than that. For those who have not tried this it is very hard to do. Engraving is easier than checkering for me. Those little squares make me dizzy. Taylor can give you an inferiority complex.
« Last Edit: April 13, 2017, 03:57:07 AM by jerrywh »
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Offline Justin Urbantas

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #32 on: April 13, 2017, 08:16:22 AM »
I agree with Jerry's approach. For English flat topped chequering, I use DemBart's 60 degree cutters.  You need at least one single line cutter, two double line each with one safe side (a left, and a right), a 60 degree parting tool (veiner) and I would recommend no finer than 20 to the inch...18 lpi is a good compromise.  Normally your finish is applied first, and the chequering follows.  Then a couple applications of thin oil finishes the chequering.  On maple, stain first, cut the chequering, and then carefully stain the new cuts.  Use a stiff toothbrush to remove as much oil from the chequering - alos burnishes it and makes it polished and clean.  Here's some examples I've done over the years...



That looks great Taylor. I'll pick up some Dembart tools soon, and do some practice before I tackle a stock. They aren't too expensive, which is nice. I've never worked with walnut before, but from what I hear it is pretty easy compared to maple. I'm going to do a NW trade gun in walnut to get a feel for the wood before I tackle the
sporting rifle.





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Offline J Henry

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #33 on: April 13, 2017, 06:58:04 PM »
  I have a set of "Gunline Tools"  New Spec C-55 Series, Leader-18,cost $13.50 when new,,awhile ago!!!!!  Four tools and instructions.Does everything I ever tried,They are still in Business.

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #34 on: April 13, 2017, 08:03:42 PM »
Justin:  thanks for the compliment.  I'd advise you either buy an instruction book or get someone to show you how to start.  The layout is the first step, and it is the most important part of the whole exercise.  You will need some 1/2" wide strips of  clear plastic acetate to tape to the stock for the layout lines, and a needle sharp scratch awl to cut the first layout lines.  Make a diamond template out of the same plastic:  1 1/2:1, 2:1, etc, according to the shape of the diamond you want. Use the diamond to place the chequering square with the bore, and scratch the two layout lines along the edges of the template.  Now using the longer strips, tape them to the wood and extend the lines all the way to the borders you first created with the scratch awl.  Use a 60 Veiner or parting tool, to carefully cut the borders and the diamond's lines.  Here is where that tool that Dave described comes in handy, to straighten lines that for whatever reason have kinks.  Do not cut deeply...these are just layout lines, but as I said, they are the most important cuts you are going to make, 'cause everything following depends on them.
You start the chequering with a two line cutter, but one of the lines is polished without teeth...it follows the veiner cuts of the diamond layout lines and creates a new cut line parallel to the layout line.  Take the new cut very close to the border line but DO NOT GO RIGHT TO IT OR OVER IT.  You will finish the line once all the lines are cut in one direction, using a short cutter set in a 90 deg. handle to cut on the pull.  Another method is to use the 60 deg. veiner to finish up to the border line.
Once you have the entire panel covered with parallel lines, cut the other side of the diamond in the same manner.  A soft toothbrush keeps the dust from obscuring your work.  A chequering cradle to support the stock is a real boon, but not all stocks will fit in one...a full stock is an example.  then its hold the stock with one hand and chequer with the other...good luck with that chore!
Once all the lines are cut shallow creating the pattern you have planned, start at the beginning and cut them deeper.  I almost always do this process three or four times before the cuts are to depth.
Now do the other side of the stock.
Hint:  when chequering, turn out all the shop lights except one incandescent bulb over your work.  It will help you focus on the particular line you want to cut, using slanting light to create shadows from the previous cuts.
Enjoy the ride!!



« Last Edit: April 13, 2017, 08:07:20 PM by D. Taylor Sapergia »
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Offline smylee grouch

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #35 on: April 13, 2017, 10:31:07 PM »
Most excellent summery of the process Taylor.  :)

Offline T*O*F

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #36 on: April 13, 2017, 10:48:34 PM »
Quote
Once all the lines are cut shallow creating the pattern you have planned, start at the beginning and cut them deeper.  I almost always do this process three or four times before the cuts are to depth.
and it's so TEDIOUS, requiring maximum concentration to avoid screwing up.
Dave Kanger

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Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #37 on: April 14, 2017, 12:04:28 AM »
Yup...like brain surgery that goes on for about two days.
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline dogcatcher

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #38 on: April 14, 2017, 12:25:14 AM »
This is my suggestion, keep electronic notes of information like this.  Make either a document or a pdf of the comments and the link to the source.  A year from now if you decide you want to do some flat top checkering you can search your documents on your computer and find this info. 

I have already copied D Taylor Sapergia's posts and made a pdf.   Even though his way is not my way but I will eventually try his method.  I use pieces of hacksaw blades to make my cutters and use a triangle file for cleaning up the saw kerf.  Mine is crude, but it worked for me.

Offline JBJ

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #39 on: April 14, 2017, 05:00:57 PM »
Justin,
In an earlier post, Jerrywh suggested getting a copy of Monty Kennedy's book "Checkering and Carving Gunstocks". Before you doing anything else, get a copy and read it  (more than once) before you launch the project and buy/make tools. Taylor's work is stunning - listen to him! As TOF said, it is tedious work. It cannot be rushed and can take a toll on your eyes. Good lighting is critical. Practice!
J.B.

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #40 on: April 14, 2017, 11:24:41 PM »
Just for comparison's sake, I thought it would be useful to post some images of modern 3:1 sharp diamond chequering,  This example is on one of my Hawken rifles from the 1980.




Click on the image to enlarge.
« Last Edit: April 14, 2017, 11:25:39 PM by D. Taylor Sapergia »
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Offline smylee grouch

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #41 on: April 15, 2017, 12:44:11 AM »
Taylor, nice job on that fine wrist chequering, looks like 24 lpi or more.

Offline Mike Brooks

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #42 on: April 15, 2017, 03:53:54 PM »
Outstanding Taylor. I've done a bunch of this (sort of poorly) and found it fairly difficult to do right.
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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #43 on: April 15, 2017, 04:34:43 PM »
Taylor, As always , Very Impressive Work!!!

ron w

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #44 on: April 15, 2017, 04:36:59 PM »
I especially like the boarder work around the thumb piece in Post #34 !

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #45 on: April 15, 2017, 07:21:52 PM »
Ron:  I was just copying the work of Jacob Kuntz.  I wish I could come up with this sort of design work on my own.
D. Taylor Sapergia
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Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

ron w

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Re: checkering tools
« Reply #46 on: April 15, 2017, 08:38:17 PM »
I know what you mean,...I have no real creativity in that sense either. I build a fair amount of nice furniture, but they are always copies of something I saw that I liked because I can't think of anything that I could call my own.