Tang extending

[Uncle Alvah]

If you won't take advise from the builders on this forum , why do you even bother to ask?? Just d owhat ever you want.

I'm not aware of any advice I had either taken or ignored, I was looking to get information to make a decision, which I did get. No need to be surly. 

[Uncle Alvah]

I will hammer it out.

[John SMOthermon]

 Unc,  is the bottom of the breech plug all the way down in the barrel channel?

Is the back end of the breech plug all the way back against the stock mortise?

If not just take out a little more wood where the back of the breech plug meets the stock.

This will move your barrel back and it can be fit into the cut you have made. 

Go slow and easy and it will work its self out.

[Uncle Alvah]

In retrospect, I appreciate all the advice offed her.  I have considered all the advice offered here and I have changed my mind about re-shaping the tang The rear of the barrel is against the sides of the stock where the barrel channel ends. The breech block is against the cut in the mortise. I can remove about 3/16" from the shoulders where the rear of the barrel contacts, and also from the the breech lug cut and it should move far  enough rearward to compensate for the error. There is still sufficient room for the lockplate on the side panel of the stock. I/m going with this.

[John SMOthermon]

Sounds good Unc! Just keep an eye on where the touch hole will end up in relation to the lock/pan. 

How far does the breech plug extend into the barrel?

Keep an eye on this, its critical .

If you are using a touch hole liner allow enough room for it to be installed in front of the breech plug.

This will save having to notch the plug later.

[Uncle Alvah]

How far does the breech plug extend into the barrel?

The touch hole has been placed to be just past the end of the plug. I marked the spot with a small center punch.
The small vertical pencil line at the center of the pan is 3/16"  to the rear and shows where the touch hole will be. I was not sure how that would affect the positioning of the lockplate on the side panel but it seems fine to me. Other opinions always appreciated!

[John SMOthermon]

Looks like you got it going your way .

I would still file a draft on the tang on all three sides. It will help it fit into the mortise better.

Also you don't have to inlet the tang all the way down into the wood..... you can file the tang down to meet the wood.

[Uncle Alvah]

I would still file a draft on the tang on all three sides. It will help it fit into the mortise better.

Not to seem dense, but why? The tang is tapered on sides/end as it came. 

[John SMOthermon]

By filing a chamfer on the tang it lets the tang set deeper into the mortise.

From the pic you put up it appears the tang is riding high.

It may need to be bent to match the contour of the wrist better.

By chamfering the sides and back it will start to set down into the mortise

The deeper it goes because the sides are chamfered the better the metal tang will fit the mortise.

It almost appears to widen the tang as it goes down into the mortise.

When filing the chamfer make sure to not disturb the top edge of the tang where it meets the wood.

It important to keep the tangs top edges straight where they contact the stock/wrist.

Try to stay 1/16" below the mating edge with the chamfer.

Once the tang is at a reasonable depth into the mortise with metal touching the wood all the way around it you can file the top of the tang down to match the wood.

The tang is soft metal and bends fairly easily.

It can be filed down rather quickly as well.

It's like making a joint in wood working, two planks joined together length wise look better and fit together better when cut on a 45 rather than just butted together.

I'm not saying file the tang to a 45, just a few degrees on the sides and maybe a little more rounded on the back edge taking a little more material from the bottom slightly rounding it toward the end of the tang.

To me this is easier than trying to inlet the full thickness of the tang plus it leaves a little more wood  in the wrist area for the screw to grip.