Shiny Permalyn Sealer?

[silly goose]

I sealed one of my riflestocks with the permalyn sealer, and man is it shiny.  I don't really want a shiny rifle.  Would I be better to try and hand rub another coat on, or rub back with some steel wool, or what? 

I appreciate your thoughts.

[WadePatton]

Yes, rub it back.

But beware of wearing through sharp contours/edges.  I'd test my rubbing back media on scrapwood prepared as you did your stock before attacking the shiny gun.  Choose from: steel wool/plastic wool (scotchbrite and clones), high grits of sand paper, and rubbing compounds like pumice and rottenstone, maybe more.  They're all a bit different and some folks will prefer one to the other.

I'm pretty comfy with high-grit wet sanding, but have zero experience with Permalyn.  I have heard it talked about a time or two. 

If you get it too dull, you might be able to shine it back up-except where you wear through. 

[Ed Wenger]

Permalyn sealer is shiny as applied.  So is the Permalyn finish.  They're both the same product, the sealer is just thinned. 

I wouldn't rub it back yet.  Use a small cloth liberally soaked with sealer and apply to the stock by gently wiping.  Should take all of a couple minutes to do the whole stock.  Let it dry a few to several hours until it is no longer tacky, and feels dry.  I'd apply a couple more coats in this manner, then let it sit for around 24 hours, so it's good and dry.

To knock the shine out do the following.  Get an old tooth brush (or new), medium stiffness, and scrub the entire stock with a slurry of mineral oil (or paraffin oil) and #4 pumice stone.  I use the tooth brush to slather on the oil, then shake a small amount of pumice stone onto the oil.  Scrub with the tooth brush in an area, then wipe off with a rag.  Be careful not to scrub too vigorously or you'll go through the Permalyn.  After some trial, you'll guickly see the desired finish. I personally prefer this scrubbing method to using scotch brite pads because it's less aggressive, and is especially good for getting into carving, if you have any.  It will leave a finish that appears very warm, and not excessively shiny.

       Ed

[WadePatton]

Disregard my previous post. Do as Ed says.  Ed knows. 

[Mauser06]

I am no pro finisher....

I have a few grades of pumice as well as rottenstone which is very fine.

I use it as Ed described, except I use a cotton ball. I actually do it between coats after the initial coat or 2.  I remove it all with damp towels and then let it dry well before applying another coat of finish. I stop when I have the desired look. If I keep building coats it will gloss up.

I use the rottenstone because it's finer...I didn't practice enough with the different grades of pumice and ate through finish..hard to see what you are actually doing until it's cleaned off and dry.

Like was said, a finish rubbed out like this just has a certain warm look to it.


I've also used the same to rub out factory modern "satin" finishes to a gloss... talking the thicker factory coats.

[Marcruger]

Follow Ed's advice. It looks great, and in my experience it is a durable finish so far. Resists most cleaners, etc. God Bless, Marc

[flehto]

I use LMF sealer as an under coat by using 2 wipe on/wipe off soak in coats w/ a soak in time of 5-10 mins. Both coats have a complete dry Then a hard rub down w/ 0000 steel wool  removes any surface sealer. A good vacuuming and the stock is ready for the final finish.


2-3 very sparse coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat  are rubbed in w/ the fingers and have a complete dry between coats. The final finish is very low sheen and requires rubbing w/ a fluffy towel to achieve some shine......Fred

[scottmc]

I also use permalyn sealer to seal the wood, only.  The first application really soaks it up.  The second tends to leave a little on the surface.  I haven't built that many rifles (5-6) but the last three I have used it.  I believe it's Bill Shipman's finish of choice and he told me about one of his clients who hunts in Alaska with his flintlock and has never had a problem with water intrusion in the wood.

[silly goose]

Thank you all for your thoughts and advice. 

[silly goose]

I just wanted to report back and advise that I used a slurry of the #4 pumice and mineral oil, and I think it looks fantastic.  Very similar to flehto's rifle in his pics.  Thanks again for the advice. 

[goodtime7]

Curious to know if you have a good source to obtain 4 pumice stone?   Found several sources for other grits, but none for number 4.   Thanks.  Bruce

[silly goose]

I found it through amazon. $10 shipped for a pound. I only used about a tablespoon full.

[Phip]

I'm saving this to my files for when I finally finish my first build.  Ed's finishes always look great, so I'm quite happy to have his guidance on the permalyn/pumice.

[Ed Wenger]

Glad it worked out for you!  Rotten stone can also be used, but it's not as aggressive as pumice, and usually takes a lot more scrubbing.  As mentioned, Bill Shipman is where this method came from.   Everyone has their methods and techniques, this one has always worked well for me.


           Ed

[silly goose]

Yes, I was in contact with Mr Shipman as well.