thickness minimum under RR chanel in forearm??

[Bigmon]

I been on here a couple months back commenting on problems I am having with a precarved stock project for my cousins son that he picked up on what he thought was "the cheap".
Which as we have all learned thru experience, is usually not ever the case.
I suspect this stock was a second from someplace.  Among the several problems, one that reared its ugly head well into the project is that although the RR channel and hole are ok leaving a nice thin 3/16 or so between it and the barrel, inside the forearm was not a continuation of the drill work.
BUT!! once inside the holr becomrs a slot that appears to have been routered.  And here is the problem, it is about 1/8" deeper than the bottom of the drilled hole!!
This is going to make the forarm deeper than it should be, can't help that.
But my question is, how thin dare I make that wood between the bottom of the hole and the bottom outside of the forearm??
I hope I have described my predibament well enough.
I await your learned replies.
This young man has since joined our US armed forces and I could just leave as is, but I want to make it as nice as I can for him.
Regards and thanks to all.

[somehippy]

Maybe drill a small test hole in the front trigger guard inlet to see just how much meat you have. Could be an excuse for one of them fancy "wear plates". 

[Scota4570]

When the web of wood gets too thin it will crack over time, maybe 1/8" is where I would draw the line.

I guess it depends on your expectations for the quality of your work product.  I would not waste my time on a stock that needs patches for a botched ramrod hole, or anything else.  I would send it back for refund or replacement.  If that were not possible I would start over. 

This has been a recurring problem, for me, with pre-carve stocks.  Be sure to check and double check everything before you cut.  I recently had this exact issue on a half stock.  I had grave concerns but cut on it anyway.  It went very bad and I ended up with expensive scrap.  I started over with a square blank.  Working from a blank is easier to do right, it does take longer though. 

[Bigmon]

Thanks guys for the remarks.
I have drilled test holes under the rear RR entry flange and under where the front part of the trigger gd will be.
I am at about 1/8" and am reluctant to go more, or less as the case may be.
I'd rather have it a little thick looking than have to patch or plate or end up with cracks.
Thats why I wanted more experienced opinions.
He will never know the diff, but I will, and you would.
But everyone sees patches and cracks.
Still, I want it as nice as possible for him.
He is a good boy.
Thanks all

[Scota4570]

"BUT!! once inside the holr becomrs a slot that appears to have been routered.  And here is the problem, it is about 1/8" deeper than the bottom of the drilled hole!!"

I routed a ramrod channel, once.  I did not like it.  So, I got a piece of thin wall brass tubing, 3/8 inside diameter,  at a hobby shop.  I glass bedded in the trough and glass bedded in using lots of chopped glass flock.  It worked out well.  Very strong

[Mark Elliott]

I only leave 1/16" of wood between the hole and the bottom of the lower forearm at the rear entry.   Usually,  my lower forearms are tapered.   That generally makes the wood 3/32" thick at the trigger guard front extension.   Frequently,  I break into the ramrod hole under the front extension.  I could be doing this wrong, but I was taught to do it that way by a master and that is what I have done.   I am not aware of a problem as long as I had at least that much wood. 

[elkhorne]

If you can see the routed channel under the barrel channel, what about carefully cutting a piece of hard maple to fit in the oversize ramrod hole channel and Acraglass it in place once fitted. This would provide strength and solidarity to that area and then you could spare the forearm to your desired profile knowing it had a strong wood and Acraglass backing. Just an idea! Hope it helps.
elkhorne

[L. Akers]

When precarves first appeared, many suppliers routed the inside of the barrel channel for the ramrod.  It was cheaper to do and eliminated the all too often drill runout.  Custom builders complained enough that most started "doing it right" or went out of business.  I put a slight  taper on  the underside of the forearm and end up with about 1/16" of wood behind the entry thimble tail.  Some builders would put a patch in the routed slot under the barrel.

[Bigmon]

Thanks all, much appreciated sound advice.
I had thought of glueing a maple patch on the inside if the "too deep" routered channel.
But my goal is to NOT go thru and if I did then the glued in patch would be visable.
So I think I'll just go as close as I dare and if I do o thru, then I'll either patch it fron the inside with wood and acraglass, or make a brass patch for the outside as is sometimes seen.
I really like the brass tube fix idea, especially for strength.
But I would not want that visible either.
I been thinking of this routered method.  Doesnt that creat a very weak area??  In that it removes the web between the barrel and RR ole.  Leaving only the area under the routered area as the continuation of the stock, other than the sides?
Its like a slot completely thru the stock??
I guess the barrel hold it together??
Thanks again

[retired fella]

Unless you are going to vertical butt stroke a moose I think 1/8 inch will be OK and I do like the idea of patching over the routed area.

[54ball]

 Look at a Track catolog and compare with a cast entry pipe....maybe you have a entry pipe somewhere....I think you will be fine.

 As far as the channel under the barrel. I think the concern is a modern one. Sometimes original are found with cut channels under the barrel. You see this a lot on Appalachian Rifles. Maybe the smiths did not have that long of a drill.