01 toolsteel for springs

[sydney]

I have some 01 steel that is just the right size for the spring I need
 I don t have a oven so its a torch for heat
 Any help is appreciated
    Thanks   Sydney

[John Archer]

I've never made a spring out of O1...I'm sure it can be done but if you stick with steel in the 10-70 to 10-84 range you'll have an easier time of it. Very high carbon steel is difficult to get right without an oven.

John

[L. Akers]

I have made springs of O-1 but it is not the best steel for that purpose, as John has stated.  I don't have an oven either so I heat with a torch to the point the spring is no longer attracted to a magnet and quench in warm canola oil.  I temper in a lead pot at about 725-775 degrees.

[jerrywh]

 I make almost all my springs from 01 tool steel. 
if you heat treat correctly there is no difference except the 01 springs will have much more life or be snappier than the lower grade steels. I don't use anything lower than 1075.

[sydney]

Hi Jerry--I don t have an oven available to me
              Is it possible to make a good spring using a torch  ??
              If so can you give me a procedure you would use
                  Thanks    Sydney

[45-110]

O1 is what i have used for 4 decades, I heat with torch, quench in atf oil, and anneal to a very dull perceptible red with the shop lights turned off. it works!
kw

[Jim Kibler]

For anyone wanting to make springs, here is something you should remember...  Shoot for a final hardness of around 42-45 HRC.  Adjust your heat treat process depending on material used to reach this hardness.  This involves adjusting tempering temperature.  For example, O1 will likely need to be tempered around 950F or so. 

I hear of many different methods people use for temperaing, but often these don't make any mention of material being used.  A particular process MAY be appropriate and work for one material, but not another. 

Jim

[Scota4570]

I finally ordered some good quality known alloy spring stock.

http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/2463.htm
http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/1615.htm

For about $50 I have a bunch of really nice clean spring stock I can count on.  I made my first spring with it over the weekend.  It was a goofie mainspring for a snaphance.  I use a map gas torch and a gasoline torch for forging and the first quench.  The drawing was done in a lead bath with a thermometer I know is accurate.  The spring works great.  I'd hate to put the work into making such a spring only to have it snap. 

[jerrywh]

 It is possible to make good springs with a torch but heating evenly is important.  I did it for a long time when I was younger.  When finished shaping hold the spring with a piece of iron tie wire.  Heat slowly until it is at a even cherry  red heat in medium lighted room. Quench in light weight oil. Transmission oil works well.  I recommend you buy a lead thermometer and use a lead pot for tempering. The lead thermometer only cost about $30.00 . Most good hardware stores will have one.  Heat the lead pot to 750° and hold the spring under the lead for at least 20 minutes. More doesn't hurt but less is bad. Let cool naturally.  Tempering at 800° is OK as well but over that might make the spring somewhat mushy.

[45-110]

i don't know anyone personally that has a Rockwell hardness tester. heck i retired from Boeing in the tool crib -- hard metals fab& machining and we did not have one at our site.

[Jim Kibler]

No, hardness testers aren't common, but tempering charts are readily available with a few key strokes.

Jim

[sydney]

Hi   Thanks for the replies
        Sydney

[FDR]

Another source for spring materials:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/small-hardware/bulk-spring-kits/extra-wide-spring-steel-prod390.aspx

Fred

[Bob Roller]

I have made springs of O-1 but it is not the best steel for that purpose, as John has stated.  I don't have an oven either so I heat with a torch to the point the spring is no longer attracted to a magnet and quench in warm canola oil.  I temper in a lead pot at about 725-775 degrees.

I have used 1075 for so long with much success that I can't see any reason to use anything
else for springs. I use 0-1 for sears and "flys" and on RARE occasions,double set triggers.

Bob Roller

[flehto]

To evenly heat 1075 spring steel, I use a length of pipe w/ an end cap that has {4}  1/4" dia  drilled holes. The spring is attached to a wire and is placed into the pipe and heated to a red/orange color...the heat is supplied w/ a Mapp Gas torch. The pipe ensures even heating of the spring.

Have also hardened frizzens w/ this pipe and it has produced frizzens after tempering in the kitchen oven at 350 degrees that are good sparkers.

The spring is pulled from the pipe and quickly quenched in motor oil. When the spring is fully polished, a 1/4" thick steel plate is heated w/ the Mapp Gas torch from below  and all surfaces of the spring are laid on the plate until a blue/gray color is achieved. The bends are "rolled" on the plate to ensure the same blue/gray color. A bucket of motor oil is close by to ensure that the color doesn't go past  blue/gray. The plate is reheated as req'd during the tempering.

Have done many springs w/ this procedure and none so far have failed......Fred