Red tint to stock finish

[far55]

Ok, Here is where I am at, I used Kiblers tannic acid followed by his iron nitrate. I rubbed it back till the curl showed about the way I wanted to with a nice brown color, but I would like a little reddish hue in the final color. Final finish will be Permalyn sealer and finish. I looked at Laurel Mt. red stain, but I don't want it as red as a Lehigh gun. Any suggestions other than the stain and thinning it with reducer ?  Thanks, Roland

[jerrywh]

 The English used alkanet root to tint their gun stocks a redish tint. I have a bunch of it if you care to try it.

[FALout]

I've seen that alkanet is available as a powder, do you just mix it into the finish or does it have to cooked into it?

[Eric Kettenburg]

Alkanet root in large chunks will add a wonderful red-orange tint to linseed oil finishes if it is boiled into it.  I have done this often.  It smells pretty funky, though.

[jerrywh]

The alkanet I have is powder.

[SingleMalt]

Disclaimer:  I've never tried this.

I was wondering if a few drops at a time of LMF cherry stain couldn't be added to another stain, then cut with denatured to achieve a tinted thin stain?  My thought is something so thin, it would have to be applied in multiple coats for the desired effect.

[dogcatcher]

Here are 31 pages about using alkanet root as a stain/dye.  http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=215

My 2 cents is worthless, first time when I wanted the "red" look, I cheated and went with a commercial stain, but that was years ago and the info was not available as it is today.  When I stumbled on the above link, I read it numerous times, and as a stain, dye, and finish "junkie" I had to try the various "stuff" that was suggested to see what I liked and disliked.  I spent a couple of months using my spare time playing with alkanet powder. 

If for no other reason than self improvement, I highly recommend reading the full 31 pages and taking notes as you sort through the maze they have created.  Some great information is available.  As to period correct, you have to decide that for yourself. 

[FALout]

Thanks Dogcatcher, I had forgotten that this had been covered before.

[Ky-Flinter]

Disclaimer:  I've never tried this.

I was wondering if a few drops at a time of LMF cherry stain couldn't be added to another stain, then cut with denatured to achieve a tinted thin stain?  My thought is something so thin, it would have to be applied in multiple coats for the desired effect.

Yes, I have used a few drops of cherry in LMF nut brown.  Go easy, that cherry is potent and red!  Mix a little, then try it on scrap, until you get what you want.  I use it after the AF process.  After you have applied it, if it is too dark, you can rub it back with denatured alcohol on a rag.

-Ron

[ltdann]

The LMF honey maple gives a slight red undertone.  I've used nutbrown and honey maple back and forth until I got the "right" redness.

I'd certainly try it on a scrap to make sure its the right shade.

[Dan Fruth]

You can also tint your finish, making it a toner. Use artist oil paint and mix the appropriate red shade oil pigment into your finish...A little goes a long way. Apply the mixture to your stock, and it will give you the result you are looking for.

[Kingsburyarms]

LMF Brown with a drop of cherry red (They are right - potent stuff) thinned 50% with denatured alcohol

[far55]

Thanks everyone for the information. The alkanet root sounds interesting and historically correct. What kind of a plant is alkanet? jerrywh I will send you a PM. Shumway's book on longrifle building also suggests paste shoe polish, but I don't want to hinder the penetration of the sealer on the stock or risk gumming up the final finish.  Thanks again everyone, much appreciated.