Davis Sett trigger inletting problem.

[greymount]

I am currently in the process of inletting a Davis sett trigger plate in my pre-carved Dickert style stock.  The plate is flush with the wood in the front and in the rear, however, the plate is raised about 1/8 inch in the middle area in the location of the two triggers. Should I inlet the plate deeper in the other areas and hopefully pull the plate deeper in the middle? or Should I bend the plate?

[P.W.Berkuta]

This is a little tricky - if the gap is not too large I just bend the plate enough so as not to change the geometry of the trigger assembly. Maybe a little bending and a little shaving of the stock profile might get you a smooth transition?? My two cents

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Whatever generic stock the Davis trigger was designed to fit, I have rarely reproduced.  I almost always find that the plate requires a little bending to make it conform to the stock profile I'm making.  Also, I usually inlet the front (muzzle) end of the plate deeper that the back (butt) end, so that the trigger guard's forward extension can be inlet flush with the stock.  The other option is to notch the brass to allow the guard to be inlet flush, if the plate is surface mounted.

[Darkhorse]

Don't deepen the front or rear anymore at this time. Install just the trigger bars and the lock to check the depth of your inlet. Inlet the center until the trigger bar "Almost" touches the sear bar. If there is plenty of room the plate can still be bent a little to follow the shape of the stock in that area.
The idea is for the entire plate to be just a little deeper than the wood. That way the wood can be worked down to flush. The front and rear of the plate can also be filed if they are standing proud.
The important thing is to get the relationship between the bars and the sear correct. Then do what it takes to flush it all out.
Another option for the front of the bar once it's fitted and nailed down (and up) is to trace the little radius of the guard where it sits on the bar, then cut and file that radius into the bar so the guard can sit deeper. I've done this and it turned out really well but it's a little trouble. I've also just flat filed the bottom of the guard to where it sits down where I want it.
The final depth of your trigger bar will determine which is best for you.

[keweenaw]

If it's proud by 1/8" in the center you're going to need bend the plate.  Inlet the front below the wood, as Taylor suggested, and then bend it behind the ears.  If you can get it so that it's just a touch proud, you can file the outside to your final stock profile.  You can bend it quite a bit without messing up the spring action.

Tom

[greymount]

I am continuing in the process of inletting a Davis sett trigger plate.  The plate is under the wood surface in the front and on other areas of the plate, however, the plate is still raised about 1/16 inch in the middle area in the location of the two triggers. Should I continue inlet the plate deeper in the other fron an rear and hopefully pull the plate deeper in the middle?  If I continue to inlet deeper would that effect the action of the triggers with the sear? The triggers appear to be working coorectly at this time.  I also was wondering if were to bend the plate again, where would I bend it to get the trigger area flush or slightly under the wood.

[T*O*F]

Here's your problem.  You should draw a line on your stock straight down from the sear bar.  Your triggers should be located in the center of that line and when the trigger assy. is inlet, it should follow the two arrow so that it goes straight in.

Enter the newby who has just bought a kit with a pre-shaped stock and decides he likes a certain manufacturer's triggers.  He strips them down, lays them on the stock and starts inletting them.  He doesn't inlet the plate so the trigger location would go straight in.  Instead, he inlets the bar to the curvature of the stock.  In doing so, he usually ends up having the triggers all wop-jawed and in the wrong orientation.  Nothing fits and he commences wanting to bend the plate to conform to his precarved stock.

All this has to be layed out before the inletting is started.  Most times, his trigger selection is wrong for the gun his is trying to build.  This is the crux of the problem and results in all the later headaches.

All this should be drawn out in the beginning to ascertain if the triggers will work, need to be modified, or another style used.

[Rich]

One option, if the plate is thick enough, is to file the 1/16" off the bottom of the trigger plate.

[Birddog6]

Disassemble the triggers. Put all the pins & screws back in.  Heat it where it needs t be bent & slightly bend it. Take it back to the stock & fit it.  This may take 1 time or a dozen times, do it til it fits Correctly & you don't have to pull anything to make it go in.....
If the trigger is already inlet & you bend it more, the inlet will be too long & you have some fill work to do. If it is straightened out, then it will be too long for the inlet.  On all of the rifles I build, I shorten the triggerplate 1/8" on each end, just in case I have an issue when I get to this point.  If it is a total washoutscrewup...... I can go to a new trigger inlet & not be over inlet.
Lots of times you have to bend them a tad in the middle & then straighten them a tad on each end.  I bend them where they need to be to conform to the stock properly & then go on.  But I get it all shaped Before I inlet it, so I don't have to fill a inletting error.
Usually you can bend the ends pretty easy a tad without heat, but the middle is different. Don't pull or stress the middle at all trying to bend the ends or you will mess it up.  And if you don't have the screws & pins in, that is a weak spot & they will bend there & mess the triggerplate up & you get to buy a new one....