Another First Project Post

[Lobo74]

Hello to all.  Long time lurker, finally a first time builder.

A few years ago I bought an in the box CVA Kentucky kit in flint for $75. I bought an RPL lock to improve the ignition, a single set trigger, and a different trigger guard and thimbles.  I read and reread, and reread Cap Chee's article on trimming down the CVA stock.  This fall I finally got started.

The RPL lock is fitted (basically just increasing the depth of the lock mortice), the new trigger fitted, the new trigger guard modified and silver soldiered (a new skill for me) and fitted. Sights trimmed and fitted for installation. new thimbles fitted and pinned, then removed for stock finishing. Stock epoxied into a one piece, trimmed down and shaped with rasp, file, and scrapers.  LMF Honey Maple stain, and Permalyn Sealer and Stock Finish applied.

I am ready to try browning the barrel and lock, but I have a question.  I am using LMF Barrel Brown and Degreaser.  I know that once it is done I need to apply a coat of motor oil, let it sit for a day, and soft cloth it off.  My question is, new or used motor oil?  Dino oil or synthetic? does oil weight (30 vs 20, or 30 vs 5W30...) matter? Am I giving this step too much thought??

Thank you for any inputs.  I will post pictures soon.  My objective was to see if I enjoyed the process, and if my skill set was up to it, without spending much initially. I think I've discovered that while I can't exactly make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, I am capable of fabricating a very serviceable sow's ear purse. (que the laughter track).

[bob in the woods]

"Apply motor oil and let it sit for a day "  ?    I've never done this.  I simply rinse the barrel well, wiping with a soft cloth or soft brush, then dry it, and apply [ spray ] a healthy dose of WD40   Usually I do this outside with the barrel hanging from a tree branch.
Then I go and do something else, come back when it's done dripping, wipe it down and I'm finished.

[54ball]

 Used motor oil is nasty stuff, potentially a carcinogen and toxic due to the products of combustion and......all the EPA required toxins they put in gasoline.

[Lobo74]

Its my first time browning anything (except steaks, chops, roasts...) so I was just going by the Laurel Mountain Forge instructions/information sheet.  They say:

"To finish the barrel, heat the surface with a torch until it is too warm to comfortably touch with bare hands, about 125 to 130 degrees F. This will drive off any remaining moisture. Next apply a liberal coat of motor oil.  Allow the oil to bond with the brown for 24 hours and then polish off any excess with a soft dry cloth.  Apply a final finish of a quality gun oil, non-abrasive furniture wax or neutral color shoe wax."

[Dave Marsh]

I use whatever new open motor oil I have on the shelf.  Usually 30 weight or 10W30. 

Dave

[Curtis]

I have used motor oil after browning in the past, but in my experience linseed oil does a better job of arresting the corrosion process.
Just my two cents worth...

Curtis

[oakridge]

I have used motor oil after browning in the past, but in my experience linseed oil does a better job of arresting the corrosion process.
Just my two cents worth...

Curtis

+1 for linseed oil

[L. Akers]

After rinsing the final carding with lots of boiling water, I apply Simonize car wax while the barrel/part is hot enough to melt the wax.  I let it "cure" for 4-5 days then buff.  When I use oil (seldom) I use 90 weight gear oil applied liberally and let it cure for a week before wiping off the excess.  I have never had a problem with "after rust".

[t.caster]

I guess I never read the instructions about motor oil. Never used it on a gun. I neutralize the acid with a wet baking soda rub for a little while, rinse it off with fresh water, dry, then spray with WD40 or any penetrant I am using at the time. Next day apply a coat of linseed oil. Oil after regular cleaning...that should do it. Johnsons paste wax is good, so is RIG grease. Mich. Flinter swears by his own bear fat.
But motor oil?

[Lobo74]

You know, I’m thinkin (always a dangerous pastime) that the linseed oil sounds good. That would have been readily available when browning was common and motor oil was not refined yet. Plus, I’m plumb out of bear grease.
Questions arise. Is big box store linseed oil adequate? What technique? Just slather it on, let it sit for an hour or so and rub it off?  Apply it with the heel of my hand like on a gun stock? Does it dry “gummy” if applied too heavily and left on too long?
This forum is a marvelous source of information, thanks for sharing it.

[t.caster]

Lobo, naturally it will get "gummy" if you put on so thick it runs & drips. I apply it lightly with a soaked cleaning patch. If it takes too long to dry in your workroom, set it out in the sun.
I have an old can of BLO from 1950s, and I can't see any difference in results between that and the new BLO.

[Justin]

Good post. I'm about at this step too and also using Laurel Mountain's brown. I'll go with Linseed Oil too based on the responses here.

[Hungry Horse]

Too much boiling water on some browning solutions will become rust bluing.
 The old timers called the color barrels were browned to “ plum brown” for a reason. The process wasn’t carried to the point that the parts looked like something the cat buried. Well polished barrels take browning slowly, and was usually stopped when it reached clear reddish brown. A hundred plus years of differing degrees of neglect bring most of the antiques to the color and texture they are today. Good luck.

  Hungry Horse

[oldtravler61]

  I keep it simple . Put the brown solution on when it sizzles at application. Wipe off when it cools to touch. Spray with W-D 40. Wait an hour wipe off.
  Also when first applying heat..only got enough to make water sprayed on to sizzel.
  Never have had any problems with the barrel rusting more or flaky affect others mention...

[P.W.Berkuta]

I have used motor oil after browning in the past, but in my experience linseed oil does a better job of arresting the corrosion process.
Just my two cents worth...

Curtis

Blacksmiths will use linseed oil on there finished projects to help prevent rust.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

oldtraveler61:  I have never heard of applying LMF browning solution to hot steel!?

I have always olied the freshing 'killed' browning, flushed with a kettle of boiling water, with new motor oil, mostly 'cause there's always lots around.  I don't get a huge amount of after rust...maybe a reddish wipe after a day or so.  It just makes the brown better - can't hurt anything.
But I'm going to try linseed oil.  I too have a can of BLO from the early 70's that I've never found a use for.  I'm sure it will smell better than hot motor oil.
Don't you just love learning new stuff?

[Natureboy]

  The blacksmiths at Fort Vancouver use bees' wax to seal their wrought iron, applying it when the metal is hot enough to melt the wax.

[oldtravler61]

  Taylor I agree your not supposed too...! But you know who has a tendency to protect...those  who don't better....It was on my first scratchvbuilt...no one to teach me right from wrong...But it worked...not saying it's right..It's just how I do it...
   I would recommend following your advice...