New build dilemna

[scottmc]

Took my new build out to the shop tonight to start working on it and struggled to get the barrel out of the wood.  I had it put in last summer.  After wrestling and prying, it finally broke free.  Turns out the stock has warped about 8-10 " back from the end of the barrel.  The wood (walnut) is cracked on the outside on both sides at about the same location (not from the struggle).   It's going to be a southern mountain rifle and the barrel is a rice southern classic.  Was thinking maybe cutting the stock blank back and making it a half stock southern.  Were they common and would the swamped barrel look ok in a half stock?  It's either that or I'm  considering another piece of wood.  Any thoughts are welcomed.

[Black Hand]

Glue the cracks and keep going. Warps can be minimized by steam-bending.

[Goo]

Submerge it in water for awhile a week maybe two then block it with something strong and straight and let it dry out for a few weeks

[scottmc]

Keep in mind that this stock is still a blank so quite thick along the barrel and it has warped like this.  My fear is that I'll band saw the sides down thinner and then when the rifle is all but finished, barrel being tight, the stock breaks trying to get it out.  I'm taking out to my mentor builder tonight to discuss and look at, too.  After sleeping on it last night, I'm more inclined to make it a 3/4 stock like I've been seeing on here lately.  I'd like to talk to someone on this forum who has an original or knows enough about them to get some dimensions and ask a few questions.  Is there anybody who has an original southern mountain half stock that would be willing to converse with me?

[Black Hand]

Once you take the majority of the wood off, the stock will tend not to move so much. Glue the cracks and move on to your full-stock build...

The barrel, when inlet properly, should not be tight in the inlet, merely snug and come out with very little force.

[moleeyes36]

Keep in mind that this stock is still a blank so quite thick along the barrel and it has warped like this.  My fear is that I'll band saw the sides down thinner and then when the rifle is all but finished, barrel being tight, the stock breaks trying to get it out.  I'm taking out to my mentor builder tonight to discuss and look at, too.  After sleeping on it last night, I'm more inclined to make it a 3/4 stock like I've been seeing on here lately.  I'd like to talk to someone on this forum who has an original or knows enough about them to get some dimensions and ask a few questions.  Is there anybody who has an original southern mountain half stock that would be willing to converse with me?

Your barrel should not be so tight in the channel that you have to struggle to get it out.  Take a little wood off the inside of the channel so that the barrel fits without being that tight.  Once you get a little swelling of the wood from the finish, you'll not be able to get the barrel back in if the fit is that tight.

Mole Eyes

[Gaeckle]

Drawfile the barrel before you put it back in, that will relieve any overly tight spots on the wood, glue the wood back up, keep going.

[flinchrocket]

I agree with Gaeckle, I would go ahead and cut the sides of the stock down to relieve some of the pressure. After the sides are cut you may not have a crack to deal with.

[Long John]

Scott,

Photographs would be helpful; we don't know how big the cracks are, where they are, what their direction is relative to the axis of the gun.  So the suggestions you have gotten, while well-intentioned, are based up very little information.

It is not uncommon for wood stock blanks to swell and shrink due to the movement of moisture in the wood.  Warps are not uncommon.  The fact that you put the barrel in in the summer (humid) and now have this issue in the winter (dry) suggests that the wood might be moving due to changes in wood moisture content.   Keep in mind that when the rifle is finished the stock beyond the entry pipe is only about 1/16th inch thick - the barrel supports (and protects) the fore-stock, not the other way around.

Assuming that the cracks are running along the length of the blank I would saw the blank down so that the sides are about 1/4th inch thick along the barrel, thicker along the bottom because you nave a ramrod and lower fore-stock thicknesses there.  This will relieve tension between the warped wood and the barrel without losing wood that you will need to finish the gun.  Then you can repair any residual cracks with a good wood glue like Tite-Bond.  You don't need a glue that is stronger than the wood.

That's the best I can tell you with the info you have provided.

Good Luck.

Best Regards,

JMC
John Cholin

[David Rase]

I struggle with that dilemma a lot.  I receive stock blanks from every corner of the U.S. to inlet.  In the summer it is not too bad but during the winter months there are a lot of different weather scenarios.  When I complete an inlet I like to be able to push the barrel into the stock with alight squeeze of my hand.  Once it leaves the shop the fate of the inlet is up to the elements.  I have had them tighten up and every once in a while they loosen up. Either a flat file ran up and down the side flats or draw filing needs to be done.  Good luck.  Take your time and think through your options.  Not every situation is the same.  Wood, you got to love It!
David

[Bigmon]

Being walnut, if any open cracks remain they can be filled with stained acra glass.  I know, I know, that's a no no.  (hey, is that a double negative?).  But you can always cut it off, but I'll bet you will never notice it.
I have filled lots of knots and occlusions, and a few mistakes, and they are hard to spot once the stock is finished in Walnut or Cherry.  Even dark stained maple.
Maybe open up the barrel channel just a little also if it seems so tite?