Nose Caps and Entry Thimble: Needed?

[Smokey Plainsman]

Gang trying to get all my specs in order before I order a TVM flintlock. So I see options to add a nose cap and an entry thimble to the stock. Well, personally, I just love the looks of the gun without either of those. Gives it a simple and rustic look I think.

So what exactly is the purpose of the nose cap and entry thimble? Will the gun be "just fine" without those? Thanks!

-Smokey

[Mauser06]

Plenty of guns without them...as well as buttplates and side plates and toe plates. 


I'd consider them functional decoration. All the pieces help protect the wood and structure somewhat.

I've read on here that someone said more originals they've looks at with broken toes had toe plates and butt plates than those without them...so maybe that's out the window lol. 




Have made what YOU like.  It'll be your rifle!

[Chowmi]

First off, it's your gun, so do what you like with it. 

That being said, it really depends on what style of rifle it is, and whether you care if it looks anything like an original Longrifle or not. 
If you care that it looks something like an original Longrifle, you need to give us more information. 

So, what style of gun are you intending to get?

Off the top of my head:
Nose cap:
There are several fowlers without nose caps.  Perfectly normal.  Is yours a fowler? 
Many southern guns didn't have nose caps, and many "poor boy" rifles didn't have nose caps so that is plausible. 

RR Entry pipe:
you are pretty much going to expect to see these on every kind of gun, with the exception of some southern mountain rifles and "poor boys".

The nose cap protects the front of the stock.
The rear entry pipe protects the transition from the ramrod channel to the ramrod hole in the lower foreshock.  You can imagine trying to quickly put the ramrod back in its' hole and stabbing the exposed wood that is not protected by the ramrod entry pipe. 

Norm

[little joe]

If you have access to RCA no. 1 and 2 and Grinslade,s book on fowler,s   and start looking very close you can justify almost anything you wish.Then as today some  builders were more particular.A couple guns have the sideplate,s left square at the front, some a mix of iron and brass trim. One has the side plate at the rear sticking up out of the wood. There are things that we think are distasteful today but that is  the way it  was.

[Smokey Plainsman]

First off, it's your gun, so do what you like with it. 

That being said, it really depends on what style of rifle it is, and whether you care if it looks anything like an original Longrifle or not. 
If you care that it looks something like an original Longrifle, you need to give us more information. 

So, what style of gun are you intending to get?

Off the top of my head:
Nose cap:
There are several fowlers without nose caps.  Perfectly normal.  Is yours a fowler? 
Many southern guns didn't have nose caps, and many "poor boy" rifles didn't have nose caps so that is plausible. 

RR Entry pipe:
you are pretty much going to expect to see these on every kind of gun, with the exception of some southern mountain rifles and "poor boys".

The nose cap protects the front of the stock.
The rear entry pipe protects the transition from the ramrod channel to the ramrod hole in the lower foreshock.  You can imagine trying to quickly put the ramrod back in its' hole and stabbing the exposed wood that is not protected by the ramrod entry pipe. 

Norm

https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=243

Looking to get one of these in .40 or .36, still wringing my hands over that one but that's another matter. 40" or 42" swamped barrel. I'm 5' 7" so leaning towards the 40" barrel.

Wanting to get their "poor boy steel" with either plain maple stock or might pump it up a notch to a little better maple but otherwise make it a plain and simple rifle with browned mountings. I will probably get a buttplate and toeplate but don't want any kind of elaborate side plate (would prefer just ferrules or a simple sideplate). My goal is an early 19th century simple gun, more akin to a southern mountain gun. Just something straightforward and rustic, like me. Was originally going to get a percussion but have reconsidered flintlocks and after much reading want to learn them.

I'm deploying soon and hope to save up enough money to put in the order in the next few months. Looking to get all my ducks in a row, last thing I'd want is to get the wrong thing. Thanks for the help!

[smart dog]

Hi,
There is a reason why British ordnance universally upgraded their musket patterns to include rear thimbles and brass nose caps.  The obvious reason of course was wear and tear not looks.  You can get by with no rear thimble or nosecap but there will be higher risk of the stock cracking, denting, or chipping at those locations.  Assuming you don't intend to fight a battle with your gun and are careful, you won't need them.

dave

[Mike Brooks]

Looking to get one of these in .40 or .36, still wringing my hands over that one but that's another matter. 40" or 42" swamped barrel. I'm 5' 7" so leaning towards the 40" barrel.

There is no corralation between barrel length and your hieght.

[PPatch]

Like Chowmi said it is a style choice and if you like the looks of a gun without a nose cap or entry pipe then go for it. The nose cap aids in protecting and preventing the splitting of the wood at the forend of the stock, the entry pipe is a convenience, and decoration, but I have two guns without either and so far no problems.

In short; it is entirely your choice.

dave

[Turtle]

When I build a gun with no nosecap, I leave a little extra barrel exposed to avoid damaging the stock.