barrel tennons

[yip]

 what the correct way of soldering on barrel tennons for a fowler?

[Black Hand]

Solder them on.

I'm afraid your question answers itself but provides no clarity as to what you are asking. Please be more specific...

[rich pierce]

what the correct way of soldering on barrel tennons for a fowler?

Locate where you want them.  Get that area freshly clean with abrasive paper or a fine file. Locate true bottom of the barrel and scribe that to get the underlugs lined up correctly. Clean the underlugs mounting surface similarly, flux, and tin it using a big soldering iron. Mount the barrel in a vise, bottom facing up, flux where you want the lug, and place the tinned lug in place.  I use thin soft iron wire to lock it in place, then hit the barrel and lug with a propane torch till the solder runs. Done.

[yip]

 thanks Rich, very clear and straight forward, its good to talk to someone that knows

[smart dog]

Hi,
I use Brownell's Hi-Force 44, and sweat it into the joint.  I clean up and position the lug as Rich describes and anchor it tightly in place with wire.  Then I turn the barrel and lug to the side, place a piece of solder on the side of the base and heat the lug from underneath. The heat draws the solder through the joint and prevents a build up of too much solder.

dave

[yip]

 i'm planning on useing STAY-BRITE i hope this all right.

[rich pierce]

There’s not tremendous strain here.  Any solder will work fine in my opinion, and lower temp is better.  I too use the Hi Force mostly because it’s what I have.

I like Dave’s advice to draw the solder in.  Probably less messy.  You can draw around the lug with a regular pencil, leaving a smidgeon of bright metal close to the lug of course, to prevent the solder from wicking all over the place.

[ltdann]

There’s not tremendous strain here.  Any solder will work fine in my opinion, and lower temp is better.  I too use the Hi Force mostly because it’s what I have.

I like Dave’s advice to draw the solder in.  Probably less messy.  You can draw around the lug with a regular pencil, leaving a smidgeon of bright metal close to the lug of course, to prevent the solder from wicking all over the place.

Pencil?  Does the graphite act as a barrier?

[rich pierce]

Yep at least at temps I use. Graphite pencil.

[P.W.Berkuta]

i'm planning on useing STAY-BRITE i hope this all right.

I use Stay-Brite also along with Stay-Clean flux - I like it (I got two 1 pound rolls of it). It is a low temp silver bearing solder with high strength . Don't over heat the flux as it burns quite quickly and you will then have to start over - go easy with the torch !

[Mauser06]

I just did 2. Never soldered in my life.


I used low temp silver solder paste from Track.  I've seen it other places..


Marked the center and location, cleaned the area and put a bit of paste on the base of the lug.  I put it in place and heated with a propane torch from the opposite side of the barrel moving the torch around to try to heat it evenly.  A second or 2 after I saw the flux melting, I took the heat away.  Done.

[yip]

  i'm ready, sounds like a walk in the park. ive done rifle tennons before thats making them and cutting the dove tails, this is a little different but it will be done........yip

[jerrywh]

 When you solder on a lug heat the barrel from the opposite side from the lug slowly.  Don't heat the lug side. Many times the solder on the lug side will melt but the barrel is not hot enough for the solder to stick to the barrel. This is caused by heating from the lug side. always heat the side with the largest mass. This is one of the main rules for successful soldering.

[yip]

 Jerry are you saying to heat the barrel?

[smart dog]

Hi,
Jerry is right about heat must include the barrel but if you do the soldering as I suggest by sweating, the solder will not flow unless the barrel and lug are at the proper temp.  So if you sweat the solder and see it bubbling out of the side from which you are heating, you can be confident that the barrel and lug are heated properly.

dave

[davec2]

And remember...the solder will always flow toward the highest heat.  So, if you are soldering two items of very different sizes (i.e. a barrel and a lug) and you concentrate the heat on the joint, the smaller part will heat first and all the solder will run toward the hottest area of that smaller part.  That's why Jerry is suggesting heating from the back side of the joint.  When the larger part is hot enough to allow the solder to flow, the smaller part will also be hot enough and, if you have tinned the lug, the solder will flow from the lug toward the barrel.  This is true for any solder from low temperature Tix solder to the highest temperature silver solders.

[jerrywh]

Jerry are you saying to heat the barrel?

   Yes like Davec2 said.  There must be a time when Davec2 was wrong but I just haven't found it yet.  I'll keep watching.  He gives me an inferiority feeling.

[davec2]

Jerry,

You crack me up !!!  That's the same feeling I get when I look at any of the guns you make or any of your engraving !!

Dave C

[yip]

 well fellas all done, could't do it with all of you guys, THANKS!!!!!!!