Stock cleaning before finishing???

[Brian Jordan]

I am preparing to finish my stock. My question is how do you clean your stocks? Particularly in the areas where you have brought brass and wood surfaces to the same level? I have a very fine brass dust on my stock around inlets that I would like to clean up.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Denatured alcohol. I have heard lacquer thinner works well, but never tried it.

[flehto]

I don't intentionally "clean" the stock prior to applying finish..... after the final sanding/ scraping and whiskering, the stock is clean. I don't use solvents or  do anything other than that  stated. Somehow the stock becomes a beautiful, clean white.....Fred

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

But flehto...you build guns with white gloves!!!!   

[BOB HILL]

I’m with Fred on this one. I don’t remember doing differently.
Bob

[Ky-Flinter]

Melsdad,

Try a big ol' pink eraser, you will like it.

-Ron

[PPatch]

Once I wisker the stock several times I blow it off with compressed air and begin the staining finishing steps. In those areas that have silver staining or show blackening from the build I use a pink eraser to minimize the spots. Your staining will even out everything so no worries on that. I don't know what finish you'll use but that first coat should be applied liberally and take about 20 minutes of repeated application to get as much finish as possible as deep into the wood as possible. Once done wipe the stock down with clean shop rags or towels. Be sure to allow that coat (any coat) to dry completely before proceeding further.

dave

[Brian Jordan]

Thanks for the reply's everyone! I will give the eraser a try. I plan to finish the stock with Iron Nitrate from Jim Kibler, and the finish will be Permalyn sealer. I wondered how much of the staining would be hidden from the finishing process. Sounds like I am overthinking as usual.

[Long John]

Over the years I have come to the opinion that warm water with a few drops of Dawn dish detergent is the best way.  I don't like messing with chemicals more than I must and some solvents are very picky about what they will dissolve.  I take all the metal parts off the stock that I can.  I install the ram rod and us some rubber bands to hold it to the forestock to protect the forestock from bending forces.  I don canvas gardening cloves and was the stock.  You want to get all the hand oils out of the wood.  A good detergent in water is designed for removing oily materials from surfaces.  Once the stock is dry I de-whisker it with de-oiled steel wool before applying stain.  All stock handling is with the canvas gloves - no bare hands.

The above has worked for me.

JMC
John Cholin

[Daryl]

Melsdad,

Try a big ol' pink eraser, you will like it.

-Ron

Ron- have you tried a white (amberish/clear) eraser - does't leave "pink" or anything else on the stock. Taylor put me on to that - works like a charm.

[Greg Pennell]

I use white vinyl drafting erasers, if needed. They also make dandy backers for sandpaper...easily shaped to get into tight spots, and fine sanding contours.

Greg

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I like the white erasers too. I use denatured alcohol to whisker so that speeds the process. I have more trouble with lamp black than metal filings.

[QuanLoi]

Try acetone... I find it cleans better than alcohol.